Sea Drift

The upper floor of a striking, Grade-II-listed former fishmarket built from Portland stone is the setting for this characterfully rustic seafood restaurant. The tasting menu is based almost solely around fish and shellfish, with good use made of both high-end ingredients (native blue lobster) and less glamorous cuts elevated to impressive heights (skate jowl). In a heartening nod to the provenance of the produce, the name of the fishing boat and its skipper is noted next to each dish.