illi 日向下北泽

‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.

Sushi got its start as hawker food that flourished in Edo (old Tokyo). To impart a feeling for that culture, Tachiguisushi Sushikawa is a standup sushi bar (and is what the name means). No drinking snacks; this is nigiri only, which you can order piece by piece according to your taste. Sushi toppings display an old-school craftsmanship. The chef harbours doubts about the recent trend of taking sushi up-market, which is why he recreated the atmosphere of a real-deal, no-nonsense sushi joint. A sushi local where regulars come to chat with the chef.

Inside a modern space enveloped in the warmth of wood, the concept is togetherness, complementing daily life in Yoyogi Uehara. Based on Sichuan and Cantonese cuisines, the restaurant offers set meals like mapo tofu and boiled chicken during the day, and an à la carte menu in the evening. Like side dishes at home, the small dishes allow you to sample a variety of flavours. The whole crispy chicken is perfect for sharing. Friendly service makes for a pleasant experience.

The billboard says ‘Chinese home cooking, Yoshida style’ and refers to nourishing Chinese food, based on yakuzen (medicinal food). Having experienced the healing power of Chinese cuisine, the owner-chef strives to devise dishes that restore bodily vigour. Helpful comments on the menu detail the effects of each, such as how mapo tofu stimulates the appetite, or sweet and sour pork with black vinegar relieves fatigue. The Beatles and other classics play in the background, making everyone feel at home.

‘Muku’ means ‘immaculate; innocent; pure’. The keynote white of the interior and the focus on the inherent flavours of ingredients are hallmarks of Tatsuki Mishima’s approach. In his native Shimane Prefecture, the chef worked at a fishmonger’s to learn about fish. He now gets his crab, abalone and rosy sea perch from that very shop, deepening relations between the two. Takikomi-gohan (rice dish seasoned with soy sauce and boiled with various ingredients) is followed by somen noodles or curry to fine-tune the palate. Tradition preserved, but with a playful spirit.

‘Lien’ is French for ‘connection’. The chef, a native of Aomori Prefecture, uses both ingredients and crockery from that region of northern Honshu. Serving salmon from the Tsugaru Strait and Aomori Shamorock chicken on Tsugaru Kanayama Yaki pottery, the chef connects guests with producers through his cuisine. The comprehensive prix fixe menu is imbued with this sense of human connection. ‘Lien’ may mean a feeling of connection, but it also means a bond.

The concept is ‘neo-machichuka’, ‘machichuka’ denoting an unpretentious neighbourhood Chinese restaurant and ‘neo’ referencing an upgrade for modern tastes. A culinary tune-up, so to speak, with the accent on changing aromas and textures. Red sea-bream salad, for example, is dressed with scorched rice for a smoky fragrance. Mouth-watering chicken, prepared in black vinegar to deepen the flavour, accentuates red pepper and nutty texture. Menu items are reassuringly familiar, yet each recipe harbours a novel twist.