新北芦洲集贤商旅

With an understated façade, this place feels like a hidden gem for those in the know. The tearoom-like lobby leads into a minimalist dining room where a brightly lit open kitchen takes centre stage. The menu celebrates Japanese culinary culture, but with the odd Taiwanese twist and global influences. From shirako with bottarga to mussel noodles and wood-fired pigeon, every course is a beauty to behold and a delight to taste.

A favourite spot among locals for braised pork rice, this joint uses mostly fatty pork for its signature dish. The amber sauce has a glossy sheen and the diced pork melts in your mouth like sweets. A drizzle of house-made garlic chilli sauce adds an extra savoury, piquant dimension to the rice. Pair it with the shrimp soup, which boasts chunks of springy minced shrimp, fried garlic bits and a sweet, umami-laden broth.

Formerly a private dessert lab open by appointment only, Hugh turned into a sleek, minimalistic restaurant with regular hours in 2021. The 6- to 7- course dessert dining menu includes the best sweets in season, not only exquisitely plated, but also subverting preconceptions. Courses flow elegantly from one to another, presenting a variety of depth and textures. It’s also worth paying extra for the hidden improvised course. Booking is mandatory.

This long-standing favourite appeals to locals with Edomae sushi made with Hokkaido rice dressed in veteran chef’s own blend of red vinegars, and the finest fish that he ages himself. The tuna stands out in particular, while various zensai ranging from unagi to abalone work up your appetite for the main course. Counter seats let you stay close to the action, but the room allows for more privacy. Often fully booked, but it’s worth persevering.

Though technically in a night market, this third-generation family business is only open from dawn till dusk. Since 1973, the regulars have been returning for its steamed sticky rice that is chewy but never mushy. Year-old aged rice is mixed with fried scallion and garlic before steamed with lean or fatty pork. It tastes best with homemade sweet chilli sauce and spicy radish sauce. Also try the oyster soup steeped in umami and plump oysters.

Nestled in the Dadaocheng area, this family business is now run by the third-generation owners. It opens at 7am for traditional Taiwanese breakfast – egg or rice noodles served in a flavoursome stock made with pork bones, offal and chicken, or dressed in a sweet sauce. Side dishes like pork offal, boiled chicken and blanched squid are also worth trying, but their signature crispy skin braised pork is only available after 10am.

Noodles dressed in sesame sauce impart a hint of lemony fragrance, a perfect match for egg drop miso soup.