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An unusual setting for a restaurant: what was, in the 1970s, a municipal swimming pool, with raw concrete and colourful neon lights, has been converted into a bustling collaborative space. It is where Enzo Scaramuzzino, former right-hand man of Mathieu Pacaud, is swimming solo after clocking up experience in MICHELIN-starred kitchens. Every week, the short menu is written up on the blackboard – think cuttlefish fricassee, truffle risotto, farm-reared pork rack… Classics revisited without ostentation, impeccable jus and a fabulous béarnaise sauce on the rump steak, fresh and fruity desserts, su