LA CLEF DES CHAMPS 61

In the old town, at the foot of the Porte St Julien, this restaurant in a pretty 16C building serves cuisine for the modern palate. The chefs incorporate a smattering of exotic touches, but always have a handful of classics up their sleeve. The chicken supreme with quince, accompanied by mashed potatoes with walnuts and an amaretto-infused carcass jus is a good example. As for dessert, it is a pleasure to find a vacherin, a rum baba or a moelleux – always a failsafe option! Fine selection of wines by the glass.

Sven Chartier and his wife Marianne have built their new nest in this tiny Perche village, opposite a church several centuries old. Far from the madding crowd, the chef is flourishing in this country chic setting, pampering diners with wholesome fare that respects tradition: scallops, almond milk, cauliflower and citron; crispy chuck steak. Culinary precision meets comfort food…

This welcoming hostelry, which belonged to the chef’s great grandparents, boasts an authentic family atmosphere. After learning the ropes in prestigious restaurants, the chef has returned to his roots in the company of his wife, who hails from the southwest as you might be able to guess from her accent. A quintessential French country inn, particularly when lunching on the small patio in fine weather.

The luminous, high - ceilinged interior is decorated in the manner of a contemporary bistro. The same concept extends to the menu, without forgetting tradition and a distinct fondness for charcoal - fired preparations – rib of beef, steak, andouillette, tuna and sole, all of which are cooked directly in the dining room. Simple and generous.

Amandine Chaignot has breathed new life into this inn, in which centuries-old beams meet modern concrete. While the bistro has energised this village deep in the Perche region, the fine dining restaurant unveils a personal style of cooking marked by remarkable finesse. The restaurant's name, meaning "sage", is particularly apt, as herbs are ever-present in and set the tone for the dishes: sorrel or nettle in the starters, complemented by bay leaf oil or an infusion of verbena, rosemary and sage. Locally sourced produce, from neighbouring farmers, lies at the heart of the plant-forward menu.