水春 松井山手酒店

Intent on catering to guests’ every preference, the house restricts service to one party per lunch and one per dinner. For drinkers, there’s a surfeit of bar snacks; for diners, dishes of generous proportions. The chef assembles his omakase set menus with each diner’s preferences in mind. The name “Koikiryori” means ‘chic cuisine’, declaring a free and easy style of cooking. Some dishes incorporate elements of Western cuisine, showing a playful side. Immerse yourself in a once-in-a-lifetime experience, courtesy of a true veteran of the culinary world.

The chef here is a culinary master who never sways from his devotion to his craft. His daughters lend their strengths to his efforts, providing gracious service as a family. Bringing the true flavours of ingredients to the fore is the restaurant’s forte. Simple dishes such as boiled vegetables topped with bonito-flavoured soy sauce and vegetables reflect the family’s sincere devotion, embodying the chef’s adage that ‘cuisine reveals the person’. Heartfelt fare that is a true testament of the chef’s nature.

This house, surrounded by bamboo, welcomes only one party per day. The refined gate, elegant room and tasteful garden are all the work of the proprietor. Devotion is paid to every aspect of cuisine and service in the spirit that each meal is a once-in-a-lifetime encounter. Meals incorporate seasonal flavours from across Japan. To convey the proprietor’s feelings for the food directly, ingredients are brought to the table and sometimes even prepared before guests’ eyes. Western ingredients are also used, charming diners with creativity beyond Japanese cuisine.

In a teacher-and-student quest, Hiroshi Sasaki and his understudies vie to create the greatest flavours. Combining Sasaki’s wealth of experience with the youthful sensitivity of his disciples, the restaurant builds a menu that surprises and delights, suffusing classic Japanese cuisine with fresh technique and imagination. The counter becomes a theatre that brings cooks and diners together, each playing their parts. The performances of ‘Sasaki Kitchen Theatre’, fun for eyes and tastebuds, have a presence that keeps the house packed night after night.

The chef oversees every aspect of the menu, which changes monthly. The restaurant evolves from moment to moment as seasons shift and the day’s ingredients are chosen; this impermanence inspires the passion and the flavours at the core of the chef’s creativity. He embraces the principle of shuhari, the three stages of mastery: first, master the basics; next, break the mould with creativity; finally, set out on your own to blaze a new trail. Guest and chef merge time and space, sharing a mutually felt joy.

Kikunoi is spreading the word worldwide about the allure of Japanese cuisine. Yoshihiro Murata sets his sights on innovation while evangelising Kyoto’s graceful ryotei culture. Occasionally Western ingredients get added to the mix, infusing a contemporary sensibility. Change accumulates in layers here, as a result of shifting personnel: Chef Murata invites trainees from overseas to pass on to them the true nature of Japanese cuisine and Japanese traditions of service. Fixing his gaze on the future of Japanese cooking, Murata cultivates the next generation of chefs.

The ambience is still, like a mountain retreat in the heart of the city. The flicker of votive lanterns casts a tenor of rustic simplicity. While he worked to polish his cooking skills, Hitoshi Ishihara also encountered Zen teachings. Inspired by the wabicha spirit of the tea ceremony, Ishihara strives to host each dinner as a single gathering, with guests and host in close communication. Generous portions reinforce the mood of celebration. ‘Mizai’ is a Zen word meaning ‘not yet here’; for Ishihara, tireless self-improvement is a never-ending journey.