CHECK inn 台北内湖

A portmanteau of Taiwan and terroir, Taïrroir is Chef Kai's love letter to his home island. Informed by his two decades of experience in Taiwanese and French cuisines, the menu captures local food culture in ingenious forms, underscored by Western techniques. Dishes that are wittily named to rhyme with idioms feature highly seasonal items from local producers; desserts made with local teas and fruit shine with unmistakably Taiwanese flavours.

The room sports a minimalist edge courtesy of light wood and slate grey hues. Chef Masa Chung deploys his deft craftsmanship and savvy skills, drawing on a 20-year career in Japanese cooking. He serves a single season-driven kappo menu. Chargrilling is his strong suit, but his uni and shiso tempura, as well as the famous kamameshi course are equally impressive. The meal unfolds like a page-turner, with compelling highlights and breathing spaces.

From the chirping of birds and crickets to the custom-made tableware by local artisans, everything in this strikingly designed room paints a vibrant portrait of Taiwan. In the same vein, a historic map of Taiwan adorns the origami-folded menu. The young chefs turn the locals’ favourite beer snacks, banquet dishes and rustic treats into memorable gems that are visually creative and delicious, such as quail with mushrooms or pork belly with fermented cabbage.

The encyclopaedic proportions of the menu may be a bit daunting, but the familiar and much-loved dishes of the group’s flagship outlets feature prominently. This branch serves the brand’s greatest hits from the past 40 years, such as the 70s classic, fish-shaped minced shrimp toast, alongside new creations like almond tofu dessert with peanut mochi and pu’er tea. Also check out the hidden items, previously only available to those in the know.

Chef Frassi has styled his restaurant to remind diners of his Tuscan roots. It is only open in the evenings, serving one tasting menu that rolls out some seven courses of creative, contemporary Italian fare. Dishes like lobster risotto or rabbit tagliatelle are artfully plated, delivering excellent flavours and textures. The kitchen ages its own meat and its aged duck stands out in particular. Wine pairing in half or full glasses at sensible prices.

A sister concept spun off from the household brand, it caters to small groups and families with a menu designed for sharing, and champions low-fat and low-sodium Taiwanese cooking. Signatures such as stir-fried thousand-year eggs with green chillies, and omelette with angled luffa and dried scallops are original recipes not found elsewhere. The airy and elegant space is bathed in daylight and adorned with wood and neutral greys.

One of the 20-odd restaurants bearing the late master chef’s name, this tailored venue is instantly recognisable by its iconic red-and-black colour scheme dotted with white orchids. In addition to an à la carte menu, diners can choose each course from those on the set menu. From painstaking recipes like pâté en croute to what is said to be the most decadent mashed potato in the world, this workshop is defined by meticulous craftsmanship and balanced flavours.