盖世大厦 3F / 假期住宿 4092

The chef has been researching the deliciousness of ramen since he was a schoolboy. In search of a unique flavour, he made ‘Scallop and Japanese Pepper Ramen’ his signature dish. Soup of dashi drawn from chicken, pork and seafood is multilayered and satisfying. The finished Japanese pepper oil imparts a refreshing feeling, and the generous topping of scallop is pure luxury. A carefully calibrated bowl of goodness that is the gift of repeated independent study.

Meika Hoshino breathes her own creativity into Korean royal court cuisine, which she studied in Seoul. Prix fixe offerings follow ‘yakushoku-dogen’, the idea that diet has an essential role in maintaining good health. The double-tiered food box filled with multi-coloured items is an inspiration drawn from Korea’s courtly dining tables. Namul and kimchi are prepared with Kyoto vegetables; cuisine from the early Joseon dynasty comes from a time before chilli peppers were introduced. A dialogue between traditional cooking and modern sensibility brings Korean culinary culture to a wider audience.

‘Fujitora’ is a blend of the chef’s name and that of the shop where he apprenticed, created to bring luck. It was his mentor’s ramen that inspired him to embark on his current path. The techniques he cultivated and his inquisitive mind shine in his chicken-and-pork soup. The chef prepares this soup in a large stockpot in the kitchen, patiently teasing every drop of umami from the ingredients. Sauce for soy-sauce ramen is created from a medley of soy sauces to harmonise with the soup.

The father-and-son team, along with their wives, offer a warm welcome to this kappo with deep roots in Saga. You can order à la carte or omakase style. Fish dishes are the stars of the menu, prepared in a number of ways: steamed with salt and sake, grilled, or however you like. Eel are prepared both unseasoned and dipped in soy-based sauce for you to taste and compare. At lunch the menu of boiled tofu and hiryuzu (deep-fried tofu mixed with thinly sliced vegetable) is the attraction. Treasuring its links with the region it calls home, Okina gets its tofu from Saga.

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.

Light dining is the chef’s approach. For the amuse-bouche, the theme is ‘five flavours’. A medley of finger foods adds a playful touch; roast wagyu comes in a clear sauce of beef juices. The meal concludes on a Japanese note, with soba. A soup of vegetable cut ends is poured into the bowl, adding value while ensuring nothing is wasted. The meal weaves abundant experience and creative evolution, unfolding as a biography in food.

Tozentei takes its name from a fictitious restaurant in a novel. ‘Tozen’ means ‘tipsy,’ a state of being slightly and comfortably under the influence; the name invites guests to find pleasure in both tucker and tipple. The fabric of human relations in this family-run restaurant exudes a feel of immersion in a cheerful TV drama or story. Tilefish steamed with plums and kombu consummately combines the flavour of the fish flesh with the tartness of dried plums. Tozentei is located close to Tenmangu, a shrine famous for the plum trees beloved by the poet and statesman Sugawara no Michizane. The co