现实生活 青山

Tenoshima is named after Teshima, the island where the chef’s father was born. As he wields his skills in the kitchen, he remains conscious of ingredients and techniques deeply rooted on the island. Nyumen, a savoury noodle soup, is prepared with dried sardine broth for a beloved taste of home. Using underused fish species supports both sustainability and the livelihoods of fishermen. Bozushi reflects his experience at Kyoto’s Kikunoi. Driven by the chef’s wealth of experience, Tenoshima is broadening the purview of Japanese cuisine.

To spread the joy of Kyoto cuisine beyond the ancient capital, Kikunoi opened a Tokyo branch. Guests are warmly greeted with cheerful calls of ‘Oide-yasu!’, a traditional welcome in the Kyoto dialect. While located in central Tokyo, the mood, taste and feel of the restaurant are pure Kyoto. Yearly events are woven into the menu, and eye-catching dishes served on brilliantly decorated plates. Western ingredients are included too, expressing contemporary flavours. An attractive feature is the choice of tatami mat or counter seating, combining the charms of ryotei and kappo.

The look of the establishment is a ‘modern-day tearoom’, with concrete walls and glass-enclosed kitchen. The operation is run by the proprietor and the sommelier, both of whom have experience working in Japanese restaurants in Paris. From the proprietor’s native Tokushima come supplies of seafood, citrus fruits and rice. Another Tokushima influence is the use of Awa bancha, a fermented tea. Nogizaka Shin hosts tasting events every month, featuring discussions about pairings with wines and Japanese sake. The teamwork between chef and sommelier points to the future of kappo.

The omakase set menu begins with medium-fatty tuna, a single piece of sushi that epitomises the pride of the sushi artisan. It testifies to the passion with which he prepares his tuna, celebrates the strong bond of trust between him and his wholesaler, encapsulates his gratitude for human relationships and embodies the teachings of his mentor. Items such as kappamaki, a sushi roll stuffed with lashings of cucumber, and rolled omelette in hot dashi attest to character as well as skill. The bustle of the cooks’ activity behind the counter brings satisfaction to the soul as well as the belly.

‘Hakuun’ is a Zen term meaning ‘white cloud’, denoting a spirit of flowing leisurely along without worldly attachment. The name proclaims the restaurant’s flexible approach to Japanese cuisine. Fragrance and temperature are prized. Bonito is shaved and dashi drawn before guests’ eyes. Wanmono is served at the perfect moment, when harmony between broth and main ingredient reaches its fullest expression. Beef and game, char-grilled and straw-roasted, display originality and skill. Norms are observed while evolution is encouraged.

With a name that reflects a desire to cherish ingredients, producers and the culinary craft of Chinese cuisine, ‘itsuka’ embodies a spirit of care and respect. Classic Chinese dishes are thoughtfully prepared using Japanese ingredients. The appetiser platter presents a medley from land and sea, enhanced with house-made doubanjiang and mala sauce to create a nuanced interplay of bold and delicate flavours. Sichuan cuisine is guided by the philosophy of ‘one dish, one character’ and ‘for a hundred dishes, a hundred flavours’, while Taiwanese cuisine is celebrated for drawing out the natural dept

The crown, ‘ryuzu’ in Japanese, is a vital part of a watch. Under the leadership of Ryuta Iizuka, the team moves like clockwork: chefs, patissiers, servers, and the sommelier working in perfect synchrony, like the gears of a precision timepiece. Foodstuffs from the chef’s native Niigata Prefecture, as well as vegetables from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, reflect the essence of each passing seasons. The passion of food producers is transformed into cuisine by the kitchen and conveyed to guests through graceful service.