酒店みなと-MINATO-

Shinobu Namae welcomes guests in the spirit of ‘ichiza-konryu’, the philosophy that a restaurant is built on connections among chefs, staff, guests and food producers. The gastronomy and culture of Japan are here expressed through prix fixe menus. After the aperitif, the steaming hot risotto arrives―its inspiration drawn from the freshly cooked rice in 'chakaiseki' and brimming with the seasonal bounty of both mountain and sea. ‘Artisanal Vegetables’, the signature dish, is an homage to farmers. Weak matcha tea, borrowed from the etiquette of the Sowa tea ceremony, signals the meal’s end.

Back when there weren’t many sushi restaurants in Nishi-Azabu, the chef was determined to blaze a trail here. And ‘blaze a trail’ is basically what Taku means. The same trailblazing was what led him to be among the first sushi chefs to hire a sommelier, and to spread sushi culture in Hawaii. The variety of his omakase set meals, which start at 30 items, is eye-popping. Nigiri items alternate with drinking snacks. Sushi rice may be seasoned with white or red vinegar, depending on the fish topping—another trailblazing move.

The movements are those of one immersed in the world of nigiri. On the fingertips of the left hand balances a piece of fish; clutched in the right, a fistful of sushi rice; the tip of the forefinger applies wasabi. Pushing, occasionally pulling, and scoring in delicate strokes, the single-edged knife crafts hidden incisions to help flavour soak in and heat travel through. Gracefully flowing motion, fine-tuned through daily practice, is the simplicity that holds countless truths. The spirit of nigirizushi is in capable hands with Shintaro Suzuki.

These days more and more guests are asking where the fish are caught. ‘If we could eat sushi where it’s caught, we wouldn’t need markets!’ retorts chef Takashi Ono. Discernment is a faculty built only slowly through long years of experience and knowledge. Along the way Ono has cultivated bonds of trust with seafood brokers, enabling him to source quality. The markets are the classic tale of ‘giri’ and ‘ninjo’, human connections forged in duty and loyalty. Sushi in purest form, stripped to its essence.

The name is both a play on the owner’s name and a prayer for everlasting prosperity. The menu combines kaiseki and beef, showcasing Japan’s famous wagyu. Tsukuri and wanmono start the evening, celebrating the season. A procession of wagyu variations follows: beef-tail spring rolls, char-grilled tongue, and a main dish of beef cutlet. Japanese and beef dishes delight in equal measure.

Standing alone in his kitchen, Tomofumi Saito engages with Italian cuisine in earnest. His attention to detail is relentless, from the cuisine itself to the music, flowers and other elements. Seating is limited to ensure each dish gets his undivided attention. When he creates new menu items, there are no prototypes: he pushes himself hard to create inventive cuisine found nowhere else. 'Prisma' means 'prism' in Italian and the high standards Saito demands of himself shine in a rainbow of culinary inventiveness.

Drawing on techniques honed in Japanese cuisine and guided by a keen curiosity, the chef explores inventive approaches to ingredients from his own unique perspective. Served as an interlude, niebana, half-steamed rice, is cooked in kombu dashi to incorporate its umami. Fried dishes are coated in rice flour and prepared as kosen-age, speckled with cracker crumbs, for added aroma. The chef learned tradition at a Kyoto ryotei and innovation at a Tokyo kappo, a journey reflected in his menus.