The Clover Hotel

Since 2004, Doctor Sai has been serving pan-Thai dishes, including royal fare, following recipes from her mother, Saiyud, a former cooking instructor, in a setting reminiscent of dining at home. Start with an elegant appetiser like fried prawns and peanuts in an egg net, flower dumplings, or deep-fried pork wrapped in egg noodles. By dessert – try the sweet potato in syrup – you’ll guess this home, with its warm service, belongs to a royal from a bygone era.

Tucked away in a quiet alley, this wooden Lanna-style restaurant has been around for over a decade. It stands in a garden and has open-air and indoor tables, plus private pavilions. The menu showcases the gamut of Northern Thai cuisine, from fiery dips to herby soups. Two recommendations are the spicy galangal dip with steamed mushrooms for its sweetness and aroma, and the spicy vegetable soup with serpent-head fish: fragrant, earthy and perfectly balanced.

This shop serves the famous Khao Soi, featuring rich and slightly spicy curry notes. You can choose your preferred meat toppings, and the portions are so delicate that you might find yourself wanting another round!

Soontaree Vechanont doesn’t just own “Soontaree’s House” – the singer also performs here nightly. Set on the Ping River in an open-air, Lanna-style building with more tables outside, this charming restaurant can accommodate up to 350 guests. Among the Northern Thai cooking they serve is their signature boneless murrel fish stuffed with pork. It’s a creative dish, with the well-seasoned sausage proving suitably fragrant and spicy.

With just four large communal tables, Magnolia Café is a simple, cosy spot enlivened by bold colours, vintage décor, and chandeliers. The owner-chef’s exquisite personal collection is on display, and she pays meticulous attention to sourcing high-quality ingredients, some from overseas. Their à la carte menu offers tasty, well presented fare from across Thailand. Dishes are distinguished by vivid, gutsy flavours; fried sun-dried squid with peanut sauce and fresh watermelon with desiccated salmon are exemplars. A complimentary pandan pudding is offered, making for a sweet and satisfying finish.

Having recently relocated to this ground floor eatery under a residential apartment, Talung is simply decorated with air conditioning, a lively bar and serves Southern Thai. It’s a small family business, the staff are friendly and attentive, and help each other from kitchen to table. The stir-fried squid with squid ink has a rich, well-seasoned sauce and herbal scent. The stir-fried prawns come with a homemade southern Thai shrimp paste and young bitter beans.

After years working in various hotels and living for over a decade in Thailand, chef Chan went back to his Hong Kong roots to open this simply decorated Chinese restaurant inside a contemporary Lanna house in trendy Nimmanahaeminda. His cooking is fresh, clean and well-executed; the menu includes a variety of house-made dim sum alongside dishes like Chinese stir-fried prawns and a stand-out crispy pork belly. Advanced booking is highly recommended.