二姐的家

Circa 1949, it was a hawker stall in the Dongmen Traffic Circle before moving here in the 1960s. Now into the second generation, the family business still attracts a loyal fanbase thanks to its duck noodle soup made with the Chinese herb Dang Gui (a.k.a. Chinese angelica root). The amber broth has rounded flavours, a lingering aftertaste and a hint of bitterness. With freshly slaughtered duck and al dente noodles, it makes for a wholesome meal.

With bar stools, a show kitchen and a soundtrack of Mandarin golden oldies, this self-proclaimed lab experiments with noodle recipes from around the world, serving up bold creations that impress with depth and layers of flavours. The menu changes with the seasons, and the same bowl can include produce from different culinary cultures – bopi chillies, red miso, sambal, green papaya and even ratatouille, to name but a few.

Bawan has been around for over a century in Taiwan – the savoury filling is wrapped in a translucent dough, steamed and served with a sweet-savoury sauce. This shop, opened in 2012, is a relative newcomer, but their smaller version stuffed with spear shrimps and pork shoulder butt have instantly won the hearts of gourmets in Tainan. Try it with a dribble of mustard, or pair it with Sishen soup or shiitake pork soup. Check their media page for closing.

Fu Tai Table began as a street vendor over 80 years ago, but not until 2015 did it have a permanent address. It's the perfect place to experience the unique fan zhuo zai culture – diners order a bowl of braised pork rice with several small plates that arrive at the table stacked on top of each other on a tray. Look for the menu on the blackboard. Made fresh daily, the soup with assorted meatballs is also worth trying for its bouncy texture and deep umami.

A household name for over 60 years, Amei was remodelled when it moved to this venue. Red tablecloths add colour to the wood-rich interior. The small menu is big on banquet classics and century-old recipes, combining the natural umami of ingredients with the locals’ love of savoury-sweet dishes. Rou mi xia is a thick broth of diced veggies topped with deep-fried whiskered velvet shrimps from Anping. Ask about items that need pre-ordering when booking.

The owner had been selling fried eels and squids for ages before he started serving migao by chance in 1985. Surprisingly, his sticky rice topped with braised pork, sliced cucumber, fish floss and peanut quickly surpassed his original offerings in popularity – and he has focused on migao and sishen herbal soup ever since. The gravy on his migao has a peppery aroma to go alongside the rich and deep flavours.

Its hallmark beef soup is simmered with beef bones, brisket, fat and onion and thin slices of lean beef are added just before serving. Pour on a dash of rice wine for extra fragrance or dip the beef in the fiery homemade chilli sauce for a kick. The broth delivers serious umami, while the sliced beef is tender and flavourful. To sample the varied textures and flavours of different beef cuts, also try cold beef appetisers and stir-fries.