老关税小屋

Owner Marius Tröndle has a decidedly ambitious man at the helm in Fabian Obergfell. The chef delivers modern cuisine, cooking with great sensibility, finesse and consummate precision. Often he pares back his dishes to just a handful of components, and the result is a wonderfully harmonious balance of flavours – one highlight is the superbly roasted calf sweetbread with a crunchy, paper-thin crust and a creamy, melt-in-the-mouth centre, served on a vin jaune sauce with pointed cabbage and garnished with pickled grape halves and crispy pointed cabbage leaves as chips. The hors-d'œuvres whet the