杭州千岛湖皇冠假日酒店，洲际酒店集团

At a remove from the city, this rustic place set amid tea fields is run by a husband-and-wife team. He is a fishing enthusiast, and freshwater fish from nearby lakes and rivers is the main event here. The braised dark sleeper with salted potherb mustard and bamboo shoot impresses with its silky meat and a gingery kick. Try the sautéed free-range chicken from local tea farms. To avoid disappointment, pre-order seasonal dishes, as availability is limited.

The owner-chef opened this tiny gem in 2011, naming it after his unique hairstyle. The locals come in droves for his authentic Hangzhou-style noodles – browse the chalkboard for the 30-plus varieties on offer. All the noodles are cooked on the spot and tossed in sauces or served in soup. Springy noodles tossed in a glaze with wok-fried river shrimps and eel are loaded with lardy richness, deep umami and soy sauce flavour.

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