东京全日空洲际酒店

To spread the joy of Kyoto cuisine beyond the ancient capital, Kikunoi opened a Tokyo branch. Guests are warmly greeted with cheerful calls of ‘Oide-yasu!’, a traditional welcome in the Kyoto dialect. While located in central Tokyo, the mood, taste and feel of the restaurant are pure Kyoto. Yearly events are woven into the menu, and eye-catching dishes served on brilliantly decorated plates. Western ingredients are included too, expressing contemporary flavours. An attractive feature is the choice of tatami mat or counter seating, combining the charms of ryotei and kappo.

Although rooted in French techniques, the cuisine here minimises butter and cream, allowing the natural aromas and flavours of the ingredients to shine in a lighter finish. Chilled oysters with seawater and citrus jelly, as well as kadaif-wrapped john dory, have become the chef’s signature dishes. A plant-based vegan course also reflects his philosophy. ‘Edition’ speaks to his approach of constantly editing and refining recipes, always updating them.

The long table bears a close resemblance to the dining tables of European nobility. Dinner is served table d’hôte: guests gather around a single large table, sharing the joy of good food and conversation. Reading the mood of the era, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate serves up delicious food and eco-consciousness, actively incorporating plant-based ingredients. The choice of vegetarian dishes as main meals is a new twist. Whether vegetarian or vegan, the fare blazes a fresh trail in vegetable cuisine.

The crown, ‘ryuzu’ in Japanese, is a vital part of a watch. Under the leadership of Ryuta Iizuka, the team moves like clockwork: chefs, patissiers, servers, and the sommelier working in perfect synchrony, like the gears of a precision timepiece. Foodstuffs from the chef’s native Niigata Prefecture, as well as vegetables from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, reflect the essence of each passing seasons. The passion of food producers is transformed into cuisine by the kitchen and conveyed to guests through graceful service.

Black-and-white photos of the palace of Versailles adorn the walls; the palace symbolises the era when France was at the height of its splendour, and pays homage to the restaurant’s name, which means 'glory'. Paying respect to the development of French cuisine from the dishes favoured by the royal court, the chef adds a modern twist with his own hand, blending classic influences with contemporary elements. The pairings of international wines are another reflection of his modern sensibility.

The name of the restaurant means ‘highest compliment’ or ‘apex’. The pinnacle of cuisine, perched on the top floor of a soaring skyscraper, is the concept here. The precepts of apothéose are a trinity: respect for French culinary culture; a deep spirit of inquiry into Japanese ingredients; and devotion to knowing the present moment. Willingness to experiment, unconstrained by convention, ensures customers understand the joys of food.

The chef’s gastronomic experience includes stints in Sydney and New York. The creative flair he acquired along the way finds expression in the imaginative freedom of his menu. Appetiser of sea urchin and tuna is paired with caviar. Hassun platters incorporate unique choices such as spring rolls and roasted pork fillet. Broiled seafood and grills of eel and wagyu are accented by the aroma of bincho charcoal. The meal wraps up with handmade soba or rice in clay pots available on request.