Les Cimes du Mont Royal

In his stronghold in the Hôtel du Barry, at the foot of the Pyrenees, is a chef who knows his stuff: his intelligent, technically sound cuisine (eg low-temperature cooking, espumas and dashi stock) also hints at the 14 years he spent in Asia. The onsen-style slow-cooked egg served with a trilogy of Tarbais beans and mushrooms is one of his specialities. Attentive service and comfortable guestrooms mean there's no reason not to prolong the experience.