舒适自助酒店 E-TIME

The movements of the owner-chef’s fingers as he works are a marvel to watch. This deftness is apparent in his side dishes and sushi. His knife technique, informed by a deep understanding of the characteristics of each fish, raises the flavour to a new level. Sushi rice is changed frequently to maintain just the right temperature, that of the human body. Rice is gathered in the palm of the hand as if capturing air. Wasabi, applied with the index finger, is apportioned just right, as is the nikiri. Formed with practiced economy of movement, each nigiri is formed perfectly for true flavour.

Tempura Kozaki expresses the seasons through ten pieces of tempura. The procession begins with tiger prawn, then alternates between vegetables and seafood. Experience in other disciplines of Japanese cuisine shines in the choice of ingredients such as deboned pike conger and Japanese mugwort gluten cake. Pieces are lightly deep-fried in cottonseed oil and served with warm tentsuyu. Frequent changes of coating show the skill of the seasoned veteran. This popular restaurant is full night after night; for the first Sunday of each month, reservations are accepted two months in advance.

The stately tea-house interior and Japanese-style painting of the spray from a waterfall enfold guests in an atmosphere of tranquillity. Proclaiming a no-nonsense approach to sushi, the two chefs restrict seasoning and other preparations to the bare minimum. They add no sugar to the sushi rice, the better to draw out the natural sweetness of fish and rice. Tuna is marinated in soy sauce only briefly; conger eel dressed in sauce that is only slightly sweet. As they form sushi by hand, both chefs focus on the basics of rice, wasabi, vinegar and fish.

The proprietor of this refined, modern sukiya-style structure displays a unique approach while honouring tradition. The wanmono broth draws in the sweetness of kombu and the sharpness of shaved bonito. Sashimi showcases the chef’s disciplined knife technique. Generous amounts of seasonal ingredients are grilled over bincho charcoal. Even the handmade soba imparts a sense of season. ‘Omogashi’, the main sweet served in the tea ceremony, and usucha draw the meal to a close. Service is in the spirit of the tea ceremony.

The French tricolour flies over the district of Yuhigaoka. ‘Au soleil couchant’ means ‘at the setting sun’, a homage to this couple’s apprenticeship in Lyon and to Yuhigaoka, which means ‘hill of the setting sun’. The chef as culinary artisan commands the kitchen, while his pâtissière wife serves customers. As in any good bistro, portions are generous. Pleasingly, vegetables are used in abundance. Respect for tradition and true French spirit permeate the establishment.

A rainbow-coloured awning marks Kamigata Rainbow, a shop that pursues individuality even in ramen. The type of noodle differs for each type of ramen, creating unity in each. Soy sauce is redolent with lashings of small, dried sardines. In the curry ramen, curry paste floating in the soup changes delightfully as it melts. The menu includes items limited to each season, tickling one’s curiosity.

The venue, a remodelled ironworks, exudes an industrial vibe. Guests are greeted with cuisine styled on the concept of the four elements of fire, earth, wind and water, represented on the menu by elemental symbols of ancient Greece. A platter of vegetables, each grilled with a variety of techniques, represents cuisine of the earth; soup redolent with herbs and other ingredients expresses water; and so on, with each item conceptually linked to a classical element.