SIC Hotel Shinjuku - Shin Nakano

‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.

The lines that form outside Tensuke at lunchtime are a part of the Koenji landscape. Inside, one voice after another calls for the ‘Egg Lunch’. Accompanying the speciality of deep-fried egg on rice, tempura items are fried in a set order. Another speciality is the performance of the chef, who tosses the eggshells in the air in poses worthy of a kabuki actor. The idea is to make the waiting time fun, too. Deep-fried eggs fill mouths with yolk and smiles.

Chef Shinsuke Ishii brings the passion of the producers to your table with his unique recipes. Using underutilised fish species and local ingredients, he passionately conveys human connections. The fish wrapped in pie pastry, resembling taiyaki, hides a playful twist within its sophistication. The chef personally serves his creations, and the whole team unites to engage with guests. The dining experience is filled with energy and a sense of togetherness.

Prix fixe is the rule here, but with plenty of room for choice. Traditional fare includes favourites such as pâté de campagne, smoked salmon and roast lamb. Standard dishes are always on the menu, constantly being improved as the chef hones his skills with each dish. The chef prepares his creations in silence, the very picture of the craftsman, pouring his passion into simple French cuisine that brings out the native goodness of the ingredients.

Sushi got its start as hawker food that flourished in Edo (old Tokyo). To impart a feeling for that culture, Tachiguisushi Sushikawa is a standup sushi bar (and is what the name means). No drinking snacks; this is nigiri only, which you can order piece by piece according to your taste. Sushi toppings display an old-school craftsmanship. The chef harbours doubts about the recent trend of taking sushi up-market, which is why he recreated the atmosphere of a real-deal, no-nonsense sushi joint. A sushi local where regulars come to chat with the chef.

This has been in operation since starting life as a food stall in the postwar years. An old photo on the first floor shows the original sign from those early days. The ‘Tori’ in Torishige reflects an earlier usage, when yakitori referred to pork as well as chicken skewers; ‘shige’ is in honour of the Prime Minister of that time, Shigeru Yoshida. In place of chopsticks, two bamboo skewers are used; meat-stuffed bell peppers are a tradition since the first generation. Beef was added by the second-generation chef; the use of rare cuts is an innovation by the current chef. In era after era, Torish

The counter spreads like a fan, so guests surround the kitchen. Chef and apprentice serve snacks and nigiri in turn, moving in perfect harmony. The house snack is iwashi-isobemaki, bite-sized pieces of pilchard wrapped in nori. Old-school sushi craftsmanship is woven in, such as spring sea bream topped with sweetened egg yolk flakes and lean tuna paired with mustard. In mutual support between restaurateur and farmers, sushi rice comes from the chef’s native Noto Peninsula. The team keeps the sushi smoothly flowing with deft motions, serving each guest with just the right intervals. ‘Takumi’ me