公牛与最后

There are a lot of courses on James Knappett's creative surprise menu, but you'll be glad of it once you've tried such superb cooking. You’ll start in the lounge with drinks and accomplished canapés that set the tone for the evening, before being guided to your seat at the beautiful kitchen counter – where you can watch the chefs finish dishes close-up. Outstanding British produce is at the heart of the experience, with the seafood often proving a highlight, whether it's soft and smoky eel or fresh squid enhanced by a creamy lobster sauce.

There is a whole lot to enjoy from the daily blackboard menus at this relaxed, understated operation. Both the décor and the cooking have a rustic edge to them, with the latter British-based, seafood-centric and guided by the seasons. Both individual and communal seating are available to enjoy the flavoursome dishes from, as is the kitchen counter, while the attentive team deal well with the buzz of a permanently busy restaurant. Quality sourdough is provided by their sister operation Jolene and while other dishes may come and go, the rum baba to share remains a constant.

The two garçons in question are Robert Reid and JC Slowik, both stalwarts of the London restaurant scene, and their experience is here to see in every element of this immensely likeable French bistro, which is far bigger than their previous place and thus better for coping with demand. Expect all the classics to be found on the menu or blackboard, whether that’s duck confit or escargots; the baba au rhum is not to be missed and the all-French wine list is appealing priced.

Cooking with fire is all the rage these days and Lita is an expert practitioner, although it also offers so much more. While there’s a strong Mediterranean and southern European element to the menu, prime British ingredients – such as Scottish lobster and Cornish turbot – along with big, bold flavours and well-made sauces really make the dishes sing. Many of the plates are designed for sharing, like dry-aged Devon duck with beetroot and kumquat. This is roll-up-your-sleeves sort of food – the type that leaves you licking your lips and planning your return.

The cooking at Portland respects the principles of sourcing and seasonality; in fact, the menu is often reprinted after lunch as ingredients are used up and replaced by different ones. The kitchen believes in doing as little as possible to the raw ingredients to allow their natural flavours to come through, and dishes are never over-crowded, with every component there to enhance another – like bone marrow sauce used to add depth and richness to a venison Wellington. The pared-down look of the room matches the understated food.

In the heart of Kentish Town sits this warm and characterful pub, with its roots in the 19th century. The large bar dominates the front area and leads into the equally appealing dining room, complete with open kitchen. Wood-fired grilling is the house speciality and adds an appealing smokiness to much of the menu. Several of the dishes are designed for sharing, like mutton pie or sea bream with piperade; do start with the potato bread with smoked butter and the duck tartlets. There’s also a well-priced selection of great wine by the glass.

Sister restaurant to Portland and Clipstone, this small bistro deluxe delivers intimate, relaxed surroundings in which to enjoy a menu based around classical French cooking. British Racing Green walls blend with simple polished wood, candle-lit tables and wicker chairs, while the semi-open kitchen brings a livelier atmosphere to one end of the room. Fine ingredients are used to excellent effect in bold, gutsy combinations that deliver simply delicious results; ensure you save room to finish with the greengage Tatin or the textbook Paris-Brest. Wine connoisseurs should look out for the 'Cellar