狗屋旅馆，佩恩林

Hidden away in an attractive courtyard, this rustic little bistro is well worth the climb up the steep High Street. It’s a cosy, welcoming place, where the informality contributes to a light buzz among the contented diners. An open kitchen allows for a good view of the classic, well-crafted cooking, which takes the form of a concise, regularly changing à la carte which relies on local produce. You'd do well to start with the fabulous crab fritter and end with the honey cake.

The open kitchen takes centre stage at this old quayside warehouse where provenance and seasonality are of utmost important to the chefs. Each dish on the set menu is named after the inspiration behind it, be it a local farmer or place – such as 'William's Grains' or 'Terras Farm' – while foraged ingredients also play their part. Don’t be surprised to see the occasional South African influence too, as the chef-owner is from Cape Town. The pared-back room has a natural feel, and it’s worth checking out the glass-walled wine cellar.