APA酒店 Sugamo Ekimae

‘Nakiryu’ means ‘roaring dragon’. The name is rich with meaning: it’s a reference to the dragon of Yakushido Hall in the Nikko Toshogu Shrine, to hopes for business growth, and to the couple who craft bowls of ramen together in perfect sync, both born in the Year of the Dragon. Dandan noodles create a synergy of flavours—layering meat miso, Chinese sesame paste, and chilli oil for a deep, amplified umami. Soy-sauce ramen owes its elegant flavour to its soup, drawn from whole chicken and oysters. À la carte items such as steamed chicken with spicy sauce and shrimp wontons exemplify experience w

From the north, butter chicken; from the west, pork vindaloo; shrimp curry from the south – such a lineup of flavours from every region of India adds breadth to the joy that is Indian cooking. Tandoori chicken and vegetables are cooked using the radiant heat of a tandoor. For spices, the basic triad is cumin, coriander and turmeric. To keep the flavours of meats and vegetables at the fore, the number of spices is kept to a minimum.

The food looks great, the aroma whets the appetite, the flavour captivates: this ramen sets all five senses tingling. The word ‘Japanese’ in the shop’s name indicates that this is authentic Japan-made ramen; the name is written in Latin script to proclaim Japan’s comfort food to the world. Flavours of each region come together in a single bowl: salt ramen with shijimi and hamaguri clams; soy-sauce ramen with free-range chicken and kombu. Ceramic bowls handmade by a potter are used instead of porcelain. From ingredients to dining ware, the shop revisits the bounty and wonder of Japanese food cu

Hideki Ishikawa’s guiding principle is ‘mui-shizen’: serve cuisine that is true to nature, free from artifice. Flavours are light, respecting each ingredient. Simplicity makes presentations all the more impressive, with consideration for harmony among flavours. Niigata rice is cooked fresh and served in earthen bowls, imparting the taste of the chef’s homeland. Kitchen and service staff work together with the practised solidarity of a well-rehearsed team.

Experimentation with new flavours blows winds of innovation into Japanese cuisine. The chef’s purview extends to Western ingredients such as truffle and caviar. Reverence for dashi, however, keeps his dishes within the bounds of Japanese cuisine. The chef treads a unique path, weaving creativity and Western flamboyance into Japanese fare. The counter seats are always fully booked but, with luck, a cancellation might make the private dining room available.

Rooted in the fundamentals of Japanese cuisine, the chef brings individuality to simple presentations. Ingredients arrive from his native Nagano. Sarashina soba from Matsumoto is paired with seasonal produce, while Koshihikari rice from northern Nagano is prepared as takikomi-gohan. The meal concludes with a tomewan, a closing soup, enriched with Shinshu miso. The restaurant’s name is the credo his mentor left him, to cook with ‘simple honesty’, an approach that shines through in every dish.

Amid the refinement of a dignified tea arbour, the chef cooks with sincere devotion. His attentiveness derives from his early work at a ryotei, where he was a doorman in charge of footwear. Tanimoto’s forte is charcoal grilling, preparing each ingredient with the strictest attention. The meal ends with a generous lineup of various rice dishes including, white rice, takikomi-gohan and chazuke, followed by tea poured by the chef himself. The spirit of graceful service brings satisfaction to the depths of the soul.