日本亚洲中心酒店

To spread the joy of Kyoto cuisine beyond the ancient capital, Kikunoi opened a Tokyo branch. Guests are warmly greeted with cheerful calls of ‘Oide-yasu!’, a traditional welcome in the Kyoto dialect. While located in central Tokyo, the mood, taste and feel of the restaurant are pure Kyoto. Yearly events are woven into the menu, and eye-catching dishes served on brilliantly decorated plates. Western ingredients are included too, expressing contemporary flavours. An attractive feature is the choice of tatami mat or counter seating, combining the charms of ryotei and kappo.

The look of the establishment is a ‘modern-day tearoom’, with concrete walls and glass-enclosed kitchen. The operation is run by the proprietor and the sommelier, both of whom have experience working in Japanese restaurants in Paris. From the proprietor’s native Tokushima come supplies of seafood, citrus fruits and rice. Another Tokushima influence is the use of Awa bancha, a fermented tea. Nogizaka Shin hosts tasting events every month, featuring discussions about pairings with wines and Japanese sake. The teamwork between chef and sommelier points to the future of kappo.

Tenoshima is named after Teshima, the island where the chef’s father was born. As he wields his skills in the kitchen, he remains conscious of ingredients and techniques deeply rooted on the island. Nyumen, a savoury noodle soup, is prepared with dried sardine broth for a beloved taste of home. Using underused fish species supports both sustainability and the livelihoods of fishermen. Bozushi reflects his experience at Kyoto’s Kikunoi. Driven by the chef’s wealth of experience, Tenoshima is broadening the purview of Japanese cuisine.

The crown, ‘ryuzu’ in Japanese, is a vital part of a watch. Under the leadership of Ryuta Iizuka, the team moves like clockwork: chefs, patissiers, servers, and the sommelier working in perfect synchrony, like the gears of a precision timepiece. Foodstuffs from the chef’s native Niigata Prefecture, as well as vegetables from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, reflect the essence of each passing seasons. The passion of food producers is transformed into cuisine by the kitchen and conveyed to guests through graceful service.

The chef honed both his technical skills and also the spirit of the sushi craftsman at a long-established restaurant. A devotee of fish from Tokyo Bay, he regularly visits fishing ports, cultivating close ties with local fishermen that pay off in a supply of quality catch. Fish is meticulously prepared, whether cured in kombu or vinegar, or simmered. He pours his passion into Edo-style techniques, seasoning the sushi rice with red vinegar and salt. Tuna takes centre stage, while the nigiri begins with toro and concludes with tekkamaki.

Sit down at the counter, and the calligraphy on the wall catches the eye. A gift from the chef’s mentor, it reads ‘Jikishin’, meaning ‘true heart’, a Zen exhortation to disengage from worldly attachments and maintain a pure spirit unsullied by petty distractions. The omakase set menu begins with items reflecting the chef’s experience with Kyoto cuisine, then proceeds to sushi. The beguiling texture of the sushi rice, which leaves a lingering sweetness, derives from a combination of rice from both this year’s and last year’s harvests. Sushi moulded with unwavering conviction and an honest heart

‘Héritage by Kei Kobayashi’ is not just a name: The chef has made it his mission to honour and give thanks to the French culinary culture and pass it on to future generations through his eponymous restaurant. Venerable standards such as pâté en croûte, roast dovelet and vacherin are prepared in the traditional way but given a modern arrangement. Homage to the classics and the hospitality of the hotel combine to open new horizons in gastronomy.