灰色客栈 巴拉顿克内舍

This traditional-looking tavern comes with plenty of character and is certainly a hit with the locals. There’s a rustic, slightly Mediterranean feel to the décor, which works well with its location near the lake, but the best place to sit is on the large terrace beside the working water wheel. Fairly priced, hearty Hungarian classics are the order of the day, with the meat-stuffed pancakes a speciality. Children have their own menu too, and you’ll be well looked after by the friendly owners and their team. It’s a place for every occasion, so can get very busy at peak times.

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in a traditional Hungarian experience, then head straight for Petrányi Csopak. Perched high on the hillside, this period house sits within the sloping Petrányi Pince vineyard and affords lovely views out over the countryside and towards Lake Balaton in the middle distance. The menu offers a range of dishes that are inspired by the traditional home-cooked meals of the past – the kind of dishes that most Hungarian households have their own family recipes for, such as soups, stews and ragouts. The salmon trout with leek, potato, béchamel and lemon is a great

A smart, modern wine bar in the livelier part of this seasonal town, Zelna is named after the wine company whose biodynamic wines it serves – and also offers for purchase. This is a place to kick back and relax, and the small menu mixes light bites with more substantial Hungarian dishes so you can tailor-make your own experience – the beef cheeks are a hit and be sure to save room for the golden walnut dumplings for dessert! Every table is located on the large terrace, which stays open until 2am.