三井花园酒店神宫外苑东京普米尔

The chef’s grandparents’ house once stood on this land. He harboured a lifelong dream of becoming a sushi artisan; the first knife he ever held was a gift from his grandfather. Never forgetting the spirit of the novice, the chef takes an honest, no-nonsense approach to his ingredients. “Letting the ingredients do the talking is not the same as doing nothing,” he says—and indeed, the chef devotes great time and effort to food preparation. As an apprentice, he learned from his mentor that cooking means thinking for yourself. The work of the old days inspires today’s creativity.

Narisawa celebrates the culture of Japan’s ‘satoyama’, rural hillscapes, through the genre of ‘innovative satoyama cuisine’. The Japanese islands form a long arc from north to south, and most of the land is satoyama. In this geographical backdrop from foothills to plains, people have found ways to live harmoniously and sustainably with nature. This image of the satoyama informs the imagination of Narisawa’s cuisine. The restaurant uses traditional craftworks such as lacquerware and washi paper, harmonising diverse people and culture.

In pursuit of new heights, the chef relocated to a new setting, riding the waves of change with his love for the sea, fish, and surfing. His appetisers showcase originality and creativity, with tuna sukiyaki as a prime example. For nigiri, however, he remains committed to orthodox techniques, crafting a menu with a carefully measured rhythm. The spotlight is on tuna, presented in a trio of lean, medium, and fatty cuts. Even the vinegared rice is finely tuned to complement the fish’s rich flavours.

The counter spreads like a fan, so guests surround the kitchen. Chef and apprentice serve snacks and nigiri in turn, moving in perfect harmony. The house snack is iwashi-isobemaki, bite-sized pieces of pilchard wrapped in nori. Old-school sushi craftsmanship is woven in, such as spring sea bream topped with sweetened egg yolk flakes and lean tuna paired with mustard. In mutual support between restaurateur and farmers, sushi rice comes from the chef’s native Noto Peninsula. The team keeps the sushi smoothly flowing with deft motions, serving each guest with just the right intervals. ‘Takumi’ me

The omakase set menu begins with medium-fatty tuna, a single piece of sushi that epitomises the pride of the sushi artisan. It testifies to the passion with which he prepares his tuna, celebrates the strong bond of trust between him and his wholesaler, encapsulates his gratitude for human relationships and embodies the teachings of his mentor. Items such as kappamaki, a sushi roll stuffed with lashings of cucumber, and rolled omelette in hot dashi attest to character as well as skill. The bustle of the cooks’ activity behind the counter brings satisfaction to the soul as well as the belly.

Chef Shinsuke Ishii brings the passion of the producers to your table with his unique recipes. Using underutilised fish species and local ingredients, he passionately conveys human connections. The fish wrapped in pie pastry, resembling taiyaki, hides a playful twist within its sophistication. The chef personally serves his creations, and the whole team unites to engage with guests. The dining experience is filled with energy and a sense of togetherness.

Love of shellfish above all else led the chef of Ubuka to tread the culinary path. He has done his homework, and the results show in a menu filled with crab and prawn suggestions. Some items follow kaiseki style, while others are Western in influence. Terrine of hair crab is an idea borrowed from French cuisine; fried prawns are immersed in sauce américaine. The meal concludes with crab and vegetables on rice cooked in an earthenware pot. Portions are generous to ensure guests can fully appreciate their shellfish. No wonder this restaurant is so busy.