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JOHN Chef's Hall

★ Michelin€€€€Modern Cuisine

Situated inside the A22 Hotel, JOHN Chef's Hall is an intimate seven-table, 20-seater affair. It overlooks the kitchen pass, where you can watch the chefs preparing a tasting menu that reflects both the country and the seasons. Cooking is modern and also playful in places, but never at the expense of flavour, with all ingredients treated with equal reverence and understanding. The chefs present and explain the dishes themselves; maybe pikeperch with dill and rhubarb, or strawberries three ways with lemon verbena ice cream. Make the most of the bespoke wine pairings by booking a room for the ni

Max Cekot Kitchen

★ Michelin€€€€Creative

A red-brick former warehouse on the edge of the city plays host to this surprisingly sophisticated restaurant. You start downstairs with drinks and amuse bouches, before heading up the narrow spiral staircase for dinner, where Max has designed everything from scratch, from the furniture to the crockery. Numerous elements make up each of the original dishes on the surprise menu, with sweet, savoury and acidic flavours all balancing one another, and delicious sauces bringing each dish together perfectly. Home-grown ingredients, such as petunia, could accompany the likes of langoustine and pumpki

SMØR Bistro

必比登€€French, Scandinavian

Go down a few steps and you’ll find yourself in this stylish brasserie where warm terracotta shades and marble-topped tables set the tone. The restaurant’s name, SMØR, means butter in Danish and is a dual reference to the chef’s time spent working in Denmark (hence the open smørrebrød sandwiches on the menu at lunchtime), and the chef’s love of buttery French cuisine. Textbook Gallic dishes range from the likes of pâté de campagne with Latvian pickles to sharing plates such as whole turbot with brown butter and capers. Best of all, this all comes at prices that won’t break the bank.

Shōyu

必比登€€japanese

The name Shōyu – a type of Japanese soy sauce – is a clue as to what they serve at this tiny little shop, which specialises in classic ramen dishes. The rich, full-flavoured broth complements their homemade noodles perfectly, and there’s a great range of different ingredients to explore. There are also various rice bowls available – and be sure to start by sharing some of the tasty starters like yakitori or tataki. Service is sweet and there’s an appealing buzz to the modern room.

Snatch

必比登€€italian

With its bare concrete, floor-to-ceiling windows and faux-industrial styling, Snatch is one Riga’s more stylish spots. The staff are bright and breezy, there’s a buzz from the open kitchen, and the upbeat soundtrack and bespoke cocktail list help contribute to the lively mood – making it the perfect spot for a night out with friends. The authentic Italian dishes are carefully cooked and include the likes of artichoke carpaccio with fennel and parmesan or octopus with green olive aioli and bomba calabrese. The homemade pastas are a highlight and the Italian-focused wine list offers some interes

🕐 Mo-Th 12:00-23:00; Fr-Sa 12:00-24:00; Su 14:00-23:00

Milda

必比登€€Traditional Cuisine

The figure that stands atop the Old Town’s 42-metre-high Latvian Freedom Monument is affectionately named Milda – and this unassuming-looking restaurant shares her name. In keeping with this nod to history, traditional recipes lead the way, from Latvian pelmeni (meat dumplings) or grey peas with bacon and sour cream to favourites from neighbouring Lithuania, such as cepelinai (potato dumplings). Service is warm and welcoming, everything is great value – especially considering the generous portion sizes – and the dishes are a real joy to eat.

Riviera

€€seafood

This long-standing brasserie has stood the test of time, and it's easy to see why. The room has a fresh, unfussy elegance and a warm Mediterranean style – and the menu is the perfect match. Good quality ingredients feature in an appealing range of classic Mediterranean dishes, with everything from oysters and tartares to fish and steaks of offer; the vitello tonnato is worth a mention, as is the tiramisu. Everything is generously sized, with well-defined flavours and textures, and the sizeable wine list (1,000+) offers some great choices from around the globe. In summer, the terrace is the pla

🕐 11:00-23:00

Māsa

€€Modern Cuisine

The contemporary-looking ‘Sister’ sits at the heart of Riga’s Central District and is run by a friendly young team. Muted grey, beige and light wood tones provide a calming feel, yet at the same time the atmosphere is lively and animated. Start with a cocktail and some starters to share – maybe cold-smoked Baltic sprats with salted lemon, capers and wild garlic – before moving on to more substantial dishes like glazed chicken with spring carrot cream and grilled green onion. The fresh ingredients might originate from Latvia, but influences come from across the Mediterranean and occasionally As

The Catch

€€japanese

Sister to Snatch is this lively, intimate basement izakaya that sits beneath a vaulted brick ceiling. You enter past a small marble-topped sushi counter and can either sit in this room or continue on through the curtain to the cosier room at the rear. Dim lighting and delicious cocktails add to the atmosphere, as do the friendly team, who keep things running like clockwork. The menu covers all bases, from carefully crafted sushi and tempura to dishes from the robata grill and an assortment of bowls – think tom kha, ramen, unagi don and gyudon. The freshly baked madeleines are a must to finish.

🕐 Mo-Su 12:00-23:00

LOWINE

€€international

Naturally, wine leads the way at this snug bar located on the very edge of the city. Inside it has a rustic look and a laid-back feel, and on warmer days you can sit outside in the enclosed rear courtyard. The appealing, keenly priced wine list keeps natural wines to the fore and changes weekly, providing plenty of interest for the regulars. Similarly, the seasonally changing menu also lists something for everyone, from the traditional to the modern, with an extensive brunch menu offered earlier in the day and the likes of salmon with ponzu sauce followed by Latvian meatballs in the evening.

🕐 Mo-Fr 08:00-23:00; Sa-Su 10:00-23:00

Chef's Corner Restaurant

€€€european, international

A friendly team welcome you into this chic city centre brasserie, where you’ll do well to start with a cocktail while choosing from the classic brasserie-style menu. There's plenty to choose from, but the emphasis is on steaks from the Netherlands, the UK and the USA, with those to share proving a particularly popular choice. Other options include everything from tartares, burrata and oysters to burgers, pastas and game – with some seasonal options thrown in – making this spot a hit with locals and visitors alike.

🕐 Mo-Su 12:00-23:00

BABO

€€georgian

BABO is currently something of a lesser-known gem. Set up by a pair of experienced restaurateurs, it’s split between two rooms and a smart terrace. One of the owners hails from Georgia and it’s this that informs the menu. Delicious breads are cooked in the pizza oven and the charcoal grill adds a lovely flavour to the various meats and fish. Order two dishes each and share – maybe beef and pork khinkali (dumplings), salmon in bazhe (walnut) sauce or chicken tabaka with salt and lemon. The superb wine list showcases a unique mix of classic and modern Georgian wines, which they import directly.

B7

€€Modern Cuisine

Be sure to book ahead at this homely neighbourhood restaurant,which has an experienced chef at its helm. The room has a pleasingly simple rusticity, and the atmosphere and service have a laid-back feel, with the owner both cooking for and serving the guests himself. Pick from around 16 dishes – sharing 4 between two diners is a great way to sample a range of flavours – or simply choose the tasting menu. The flavoursome modern cuisine takes its influences from around the globe, ranging from Cantabrian anchovies to salmon ceviche; desserts are a highlight and the wine list offers great value.

Whitehouse

€€Modern Cuisine

Whitehouse's dining terrace is one of the most sought after in the city thanks to its views over the colourful flower displays of Vērmanes Garden, but its signature cocktails ensure that the place really comes alive too. It’s a sizeable spot, with a long, narrow room, stylish décor and even a living wall. Menus blend influences from across the globe with a range of fermentation techniques, and there’s a touch of theatre to the presentation. The seasonal tasting menus reflect the locality – as do the smaller local producers on their wine list – and desserts are a particular highlight.

Entresol

€€french

Set on the ground floor of a grand city centre property, this small restaurant offers two experiences in one. The front area is filled with memorabilia and has more of a vintage lounge feel, while the raised area behind has a less-cluttered look. The good value tasting menu changes twice a year and offers a selection of modern dishes with a pleasingly unfussy approach, allowing the flavours of the excellent quality produce to shine.

🕐 Mo-Su 12:00-23:00

3 Chefs

€€Modern Cuisine

Located in Jacob’s Barracks – a restored 18C building overlooking the Powder Tower and Swedish Gate – this restaurant lives up to exactly what you might expect. It’s run by three chefs – who help serve the dishes and love chatting with their guests – and the menu sticks with the traditional theme by offering classical flavour combinations, albeit updated with touches of creativity and a little refinement. The tasting menu is the best route to having a great all-round experience, and they hold cookery classes for those who like to get hands-on.

Stage22

€€€Asian, Fusion

Set on the top floor of the Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga, this sumptuous restaurant affords superb views out over the park and the city skyline. Start with a drink in the chic cocktail bar or out on the lovely narrow terrace, then settle into plush chairs to enjoy your evening. This is an ideal place for celebrating and you will be looked after with consummate ease by the professional team. The wide-ranging Asian menu includes the likes of spicy tuna roll and Argentinian beef fillet with shallot cream, while the crispy vegetable tempura with dashi sauce is not to be missed.

Seasons

€€€Traditional Cuisine

The luxurious Grand Palace Hotel plays host to this sumptuous restaurant, as well as a supremely comfortable bar which comes packed with antiques and fine art – be sure to either start or end your night here. Seasonal dishes are themed around the world’s greatest painters, so are naturally both visually striking and full of colour. The likes of lightly smoked trout with béarnaise sauce are a joy to eat, and if you spot the toffee pudding with buttermilk sorbet, be sure to order it. The wine list contains some premium bottles, and plush bedrooms mean you don't have to far to go once fully sated

Le Dome

€€€French

Tucked away down the cobbled streets of the Old Town is a 400-year-old building which is home to both a boutique hotel and this intimate restaurant. Dine in the long, narrow room or, in summer, book a spot on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Daugava River. Cooking has a classical French heart, pepped up by influences from the wider Mediterranean, and while the chef is classically trained, he brings the dishes up to date with modern execution. Top-quality seasonal ingredients are the stars of the show, their flavours shining through thanks to the carefully balanced flavours and the finesse o

Neiburgs

€€regional

The crowds thin out as you wind your way down the cobbled streets of the Old Town and find yourself in this peaceful spot. Located on the ground floor of a boutique hotel, this restaurant is the place to dine if you’re looking for a smart environment but with a pleasingly unpretentious atmosphere; there’s also a lovely terrace for warmer days. The menus offer fresh, unfussy dishes with some Mediterranean influences, and the seafood options are particularly appealing. The crab and tiger prawn ravioli with bisque sauce is a real winner, while the herring dishes are always a popular choice.

🕐 Mo 11:00-15:00; Tu-Sa 11:00-23:00

36.Line Grill Restaurant

€€Modern Cuisine

Beachside locations don’t come much better than this, as you can walk straight in off the sand. Those after some respite from the sun can stay inside, while those wanting to feel the sea breeze should head for the glass-fronted terrace. The accessible menu covers all options, from lighter sushi and tartares to dumplings and hearty grilled fish and meat dishes. The tiramisu laced with the famous Black Balsam – their national drink – is a must-try, and the extensive selection of wines and cocktails is perfect for watching the sun go down.

Pavāru māja

€€€€Modern Cuisine, Regional Cuisine

A former maternity hospital on the edge of a rural village plays host to this smart, modern restaurant. Here, you are encouraged to relax in their lovely nature observation garden – a place to sit back, listen and watch – before taking time to really savour your meal. Their raised beds and foraging trips provide the kitchen with vegetables and herbs, while the rest of their produce is locally sourced. The four-course lunch and eight-course dinner are informed by what’s fresh and available each day.