Section L Tsukiji

Recently it has become the fashion among sushi restaurants to show off the business cards or other tokens of tuna wholesalers to signal that they are the real deal. Keita Aoyama is the diametric opposite. Hearing this bit of news, you probably like him already—fortunately, as affinity with the owner-chef is a vital element of the sushi shop experience. Aoyama is a man of kind temperament. Nigiri are formed large; cut toppings are thick and broad, according to the characteristics of each fish, so as to wrap around the vinegared rice when formed, making them impressive.

A sign with a crane’s head in profile against the sun marks the modern Japanese exterior. Enter the dining room, and piped jazz music fills an interior decorated with Western paintings. Red and white keynotes in the décor denote the rising sun. Cuisine is ‘modern classic’, a theme born of the sensibility the chef cultivated overseas. The aim is to offer modulation in temperature, beguiling aromas, and a light, comfortable feeling after dining. Refined items of refreshing originality suggest the future of Japanese cuisine.

‘L’Osier’ means ‘The Willow’. The name comes from the willow trees that once symbolised Ginza and is a nod to the shop’s founding location. When the doors open, guests are greeted by a glass artwork depicting a willow tree. Half a century has passed since the restaurant opened, but it has never stopped innovating. Chef Olivier Chaignon cultivates relationships with producers around the country, creating French cuisine at the cutting edge of the era.

Shinji Kanesaka’s watchword is iki, a word spanning a wonderful variety of meanings. Depending on the character it’s written with, it can mean ‘living’, ‘fresh’ or ‘stylish’. Steady, daily accumulation of learning shows in the way the craftsman lives his life. The leadership by which he cultivates his young staff is outstanding. Kanesaka orients his team toward a common goal, burnishing their character, with each team member playing an appointed role. He sharpens his skills and those of his team, knowing that all their training culminates in that single moment – a piece of sushi.

Sometimes our connections intervene to change our lives. Harutaka Takahashi’s mischievous youth in Asahikawa took a turn for the better when, through a tempura master who was a close friend of his potter uncle, he landed a job at Sukiyabashi Jiro. Like Ravel’s Bolero, sushi here is presented with a particular rhythm, building toward a crescendo of sweetness, sourness and temperature in harmony. Destiny is in the taste and texture of every piece of sushi at Harutaka.

The menu card is designed like vocabulary flip cards, inviting guests to flip through the pages with growing anticipation. The enoki mushroom sausage was born from an encounter with a passionate producer, while the consommé, made from spent hens, embodies a deep respect for ingredients. The restaurant’s name means ‘Three Faces’, reflecting the interconnected roles of producers, guests, and staff. Their shared story unfolds through each course.

A theatre-style open kitchen is centred around a wood-fired oven. Blazing flames flicker as the aroma of burning wood fills the room. All items on the prix fixe menu, from appetiser to dessert, are cooked over this wood fire. Seasonal ingredients from across Japan are prepared through grilling, steaming and smoking. A touch of smokiness and fragrant sauces lend each dish its distinctive character.