Saju Kyoto

The name ‘Wagokoro’ was chosen as the chef aims for cuisine that calms the soul. Rather than pursue beautiful presentation for its own sake, the chef seeks a natural appearance that delights the hearts of diners. This commitment shines in grilled items such as rolled omelette and sweetfish, as well as in bowls of stewed items. Handmade thick-fried tofu and fish cake are the perfect companions to their broth. Flavours as only a chef who has toiled earnestly in the fields of Kyoto cooking can produce.

Bold, elegant cuisine, stripped down and pure, sets off works by Rosanjin and other artists. Avoiding piling element upon element, Ogata finds creativity in deceptively unsophisticated appearances. Technique is guided by intuition gained from each ingredient or inspired by seasonal expressions. Seasonal aesthetics are manifested through the choice of ingredients, revealing the natural vitality of each.

The house began life as a travelling fishmonger, carrying fish from Wakasa Bay to scattered markets, then gradually transitioned into a restaurant. The sixth-generation head, Motokazu Nakamura, took over the reins having been the only one entrusted with the craft he learned at his father’s side. For the white miso zoni, he only uses water drawn from a well on the premises to dissolve the miso. Sake-grilled tilefish is doused in sake multiple times, piling flavour on top of flavour. The chef tends the kitchen with his son, who trained abroad, passing skills and spirit from one generation to the

In a teacher-and-student quest, Hiroshi Sasaki and his understudies vie to create the greatest flavours. Combining Sasaki’s wealth of experience with the youthful sensitivity of his disciples, the restaurant builds a menu that surprises and delights, suffusing classic Japanese cuisine with fresh technique and imagination. The counter becomes a theatre that brings cooks and diners together, each playing their parts. The performances of ‘Sasaki Kitchen Theatre’, fun for eyes and tastebuds, have a presence that keeps the house packed night after night.

Guests are greeted with a cup of Kakegawa tea from the chef’s native Shizuoka, while kukicha, tea made from tea twigs, or ‘genmaicha’, green tea made from roasted brown rice, is served between courses. Combinations of foodstuffs convey the distinctiveness of the menu. Fruit is paired with fish and vegetables as their natural sweetness and acidity adds depth and contrast. Meat dishes are a vital part: depending on the season, diners may be entertained by meat hot-pots created before their eyes. The chef caters to guest preferences with a flexible imagination, pursuing an experience tailored for

Playful-hearted fare and amiable service keep the establishment packed evening after evening. In the spirit of blending Western and Japanese styles, Koichi Maekawa dons chef’s whites and pipes light jazz over speakers. His credo is that food should be fun, so his roving imagination goes above and beyond Japanese, Chinese, and Western traditions. The all-wood interior and vaulted ceiling exude warmth, evoking a houseboat. With Maekawa as skipper and his chefs as the crew, this ‘ship’ keeps passengers smiling and rides a wave of popularity.

The next generation of chefs apply themselves diligently to every task from cooking to service, following the proprietor’s teaching to always be sincere. The chef devotes himself to his craft, staying close to the basics while feeding his curiosity with inventive combinations. Vegetables such as peas, corn, ginkgo nuts and turnip are kneaded into baked sesame tofu, heralding the arrival of the season.