NINJA & GEISHA

Techniques from every genre of Japanese cuisine are used for tempura; items may be pre-cooked or lightly scored and seasoned to bring out their natural flavour before frying. Keen to highlight Kansai ingredients, the chef stocks octopus, pike conger and tilefish. Osaka flourished as a centre of cotton production, so the chef cooks with a unique cottonseed oil in solidarity with producers. A beacon of Naniwa food culture to the world, with imaginative twists.

Hideaki Matsuo expresses traditional Japanese culture, guided by the traditional cycle of twenty-four seasons. The chef’s messages on the menu are designed to conjure up scenes of nature in front of guests’ eyes, while seasonal flavours and annual events are woven into the cuisine in truly elegant ways. At an Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan event, Matsuo showcased Osaka food culture to the world. He warmly welcomes trainees from overseas, dedicating himself to the development and progress of the industry.

The star of the menu is the bounty of the Hokuriku region. Seafood is delivered from the chef’s native Ishikawa Prefecture; seafood from every part of Ishikawa express the shifting seasons: Noto abalone, Nanao egg cockles, Chirihama oysters, and Kanaiwa male snow crab. As he cooks on an earthen charcoal brazier, the chef holds forth on their particular qualities and the passion of the fishermen with whom he does business. The restaurant name derives from the historic Higashi Chaya district of Kanazawa. From behind the counter, the chef waxes eloquent on the charms of his birthplace.

The chef spent years fine-tuning his skills in a Japanese restaurant in Hozenji Yokocho. While treasuring the lessons he learned there, he now blazes his own culinary trail. Mindful of how knife technique can affect the flavour of sashimi, he practises daily and his grounded approach to cooking is reassuring to watch. Bringing together everything he has learned over his career, he expresses it in cuisine of the ‘here and now’. Rather than just copy his mentor, the chef treads his own path in the gastronomic world.

Until the previous generation, the shop had focused on sushi deliveries, but the current owner transformed it into a sushi restaurant. He changed the sushi, too, reflecting his training in the Edomae style. Sushi is served omakase style, but the chef also picks up on guests’ preferences and chooses pieces accordingly; if the guest likes to drink, he increases the number of small dishes that go well with sake. Seafood items from Osaka Bay, such as sea bream, sand shrimp, and egg cockle, are woven into the mix. Sushi is formed using red-vinegar rice.

Weave Kansai food culture and Chinese tradition together and you get Kamigatachuka. Ingredients from the Kinki region are prepared using Chinese and Japanese techniques; continuing the theme, items are served on Chinese and Japanese plates and bowls. Vegetarian cuisine, dubbed ‘Naniwa’ (‘vegetable garden’), brings to mind the Kawachi Plain’s fame as a vegetable-producing region. The fare is the self-expression of a chef who was born in Osaka and grew up in a family that ran a Chinese restaurant.

Tenboshi is managed by Numata, a developer of tempura restaurants. The chain has several locations, but this one is popular for its prices and casual style. Born in Amakusa, the chef gets many ingredients from his native Kumamoto, as well as other parts of Kyushu. Tempura, fried in a blended of fresh-pressed sesame and cottonseed oils, is light and airy. Providing seafood and vegetables alternately, with dipping sauces to set off each item to advantage, is one way to show off individuality.