Nachiya

‘Mube’ refers to the fruit of the Japanese staunton vine. The owner-chef adopted the name because it is considered a talisman of longevity and a famous product of his native Shiga. His use of that prefecture’s fermented foods reflects his personality, and he also prepares narezushi, a traditional fermented food of fish, salt and rice, as well as fish sauce and miso. Among his passions lies the interaction between dashi and the umami of fermentation, though he uses the latter’s characteristic flavour with restraint, in deference to modern tastes. A link climbing to the future for the food cultu

Tempura kaiseki, inherited from the chef’s grandfather. Japanese cuisine expresses the turning of the seasons. Tempura is fried one item at a time in canola oil, with a thin, lightly seasoned coating. Dipping sauce is served warm; tofu in a deep-fried style preserves the grandfather’s methods. Dressing tempura items in chopped onions and mustard is the Tenjaku style. Feeling that the afternotes should be light, the meal ends with white rice cooked in clay pots.

This fare shows equal reverence for the aesthetics and traditions of Japanese cuisine and for classical works of art. The teahouse-style interior that greets guests is appointed with hanging scrolls, vases and other accoutrements accumulated over many years. To harmonise with the serving-ware, cuisine is presented simply, accentuating the beauty of blank spaces. Knowledge of home-brewed sake and fermentation pay tribute to traditional foods. ‘Doppo’, meaning ‘unique’, was a favourite phrase of epicure Rosanjin Kitaoji, a devotee of beauty in all its manifestations.

Shinya Matsumoto expresses delicacy and rustic beauty through his cooking. A perfect example is his grilled offerings, cooked upright as if around a sunken hearth. Matsumoto polishes his artisanal skills with a keen eye fixed on the culinary techniques of antiquity. Foods are grilled upright over charcoal in a pot, concentrating their flavour as they roast. The meat and fish’s natural fats fall onto the charcoal, wreathing each item in smoke that adds to their aroma. The chef’s perspective and techniques draw out delicious flavours.

The name means ‘five’, referring to the five colours of the buckwheat plant, from its root, stalk, flowers, seeds and leaves. It also pays tribute to the five elements of the natural world, with Daitoku-ji Temple a few steps away. Omakase of soba and other dishes is replete with seasonal flavours, revealing the chef’s mastery of Japanese culinary arts. Aesthetic sense is outstanding, as befits a soba house of the Wakuden family. Soba is served plain or with spicy daikon. Dishes such as aemono or sabazushi may be added à la carte.

Tozentei takes its name from a fictitious restaurant in a novel. ‘Tozen’ means ‘tipsy,’ a state of being slightly and comfortably under the influence; the name invites guests to find pleasure in both tucker and tipple. The fabric of human relations in this family-run restaurant exudes a feel of immersion in a cheerful TV drama or story. Tilefish steamed with plums and kombu consummately combines the flavour of the fish flesh with the tartness of dried plums. Tozentei is located close to Tenmangu, a shrine famous for the plum trees beloved by the poet and statesman Sugawara no Michizane. The co

A former pâtissière, the chef switched from pastries to the path of soba, determined to focus on doing one thing well. Thin-cut juwari soba from home-ground flour is fragrant with a smooth finish. Side dish selections focus on natural flavours that make fine companions to sake, such as boiled greens in bonito-flavoured soy sauce and pickled vegetables. On weekdays, the restaurant is generally open only at lunchtime. With an extensive collection of local sakes, guests can enjoy a leisurely afternoon savouring them at KOKAGE.