Hôtel de France

This 19C, half-timbered brick manor house overlooking the Seine is the HQ of David Goerne, who conjures up indulgent, fiendishly spot-on fare. He invites diners to sample an immersive experience in his vintage kitchen, whose walls gleam with copper utensils, as he rolls out a creative, drool-worthy banquet: terrine of foie gras and eel, caramelised apple and foie gras-spiked ice cream. Goerne’s score reveals a distinct weakness for top-notch, local produce, including Arctic char and caviar, which he assembles with almost disconcerting ease. The offbeat interior is flanked by a panoramic terrac