Hôtel de Ľeau

Its full-length windows and open kitchen may not look like your typical noodle shop. The owner-chef has honed his skills in French cuisine for over 10 years and opened this minimalistic shop in his hometown for Taiwanese noodles to mingle with French techniques and sauces. The short menu shows promising creativity and it changes every week, except seared ox tongue with noodles in truffle sauce, and cheese caramel flan that are always available.

Tainanese don’t need a sign to find good food in every nook and cranny of their city. This shop is one of such joints – a nondescript space clad in corrugated metal sheets, but that doesn’t stop regulars from queuing at the door. Its Tainan-style congee is more like soupy rice than the creamy type. Milkfish fillet, oysters, Chinese celery and rice are drenched in a clear stock to make the brunch favourite of many.

After five decades of business in Guohua Street Market, the lamb soup stall shut its doors in 2013. Regulars lamented the loss but the owner’s nephew quit his job in Taipei to re-open the shop here. The famous soup made with freshly slaughtered local lamb meat and bones is the must-try item, but do order other lamb cuts and offal blanched in the soup and dressed in sesame oil. Come early – everything is sold out before 11 am.

Amid century-old shops on the same street, A Wen opened its doors only in 2016. But it has quickly won the hearts of many with their rice cake made from scratch. Rice milk is mixed with three sweet potato starches for the right consistency before steamed, sliced and fried till golden. Try the Zhao Pai variety for rice cake in bamboo shoot pork sauce. The over-easy egg is the icing on the cake (pun intended); try also their house-made chilli sauce.

Over 60 years old, this eatery has moved four times, but that hasn’t deterred its loyal followers who continue to queue up daily before opening time. Shrimp roll is a classic Taiwanese snack and a must-try for all visitors. Huang Chia’s version is stuffed with shrimp and cabbage and is dipped in a potato starch batter before being deep-fried to order, resulting in a fluffy airy crust, with thinly sliced radish on the side for contrast.

This quaint red-brick mansion built circa 1846 has been home to an omakase restaurant serving traditional Taiwanese banquet dishes since 2015. The room was carefully restored to its former glory, befitting the old-time recipes the head chef got hooked on. For a flat fee per person, your party will be served seven dishes and one soup, all made with local seasonal ingredients like milkfish from Cigu and rice from Houbi. Reservations are mandatory.

Shaved ice is mandatory for anyone spending a summer afternoon in scorching Tainan. But even in winter, shaved ice has its loyal fans. For over 50 years, Yuan Zai Hui has been specialising in eight-treasure shaved ice, traditionally with eight toppings. But the owners serve a simplified version allowing customers to choose five toppings out of 10-plus house-made choices. Signature include mini mochi balls, candied taro and tapioca wedges.