Suite dream

Situated in the lively Nomentano quarter, to the north-east of the city and behind Piazza Bologna — not a tourist area, but rather one of Rome’s student districts — this youthful operation offers fragrant and unfussy Italian regional cookery, reinterpreted with evident passion. The recipes traverse the Italian peninsula from north to south, before being reinterpreted with a personal touch: the traditional Mantuan pumpkin tortello, for example, becomes a slice of roasted pumpkin with sour butter, curry sauce, licorice, and amaretti.While many dishes retain an almost home-cooked feel, there is n