La maison d'Apremont

Over more than 30 years, this chef has built up a loyal clientele of happy diners courtesy of his contemporary cuisine featuring nods to the Mediterranean, in dishes such as bouillabaisse jus and carpaccio of large wild prawns. The yakitori sauce on the duck fillet is one of his more exotic marriages. You can choose to dine in either the contemporary space or the former 14C cloister.

This spot to the north of Nevers, once a roadside café, has been taken over by a pleasant young couple. The chef serves enjoyable traditional cuisine (roast monkfish, curry and lemongrass fumet, courgette and tomato tarte Tatin; chicken supreme, poultry liver and port stuffing), as well as a vegetarian set menu. In fine weather, make a beeline for the quiet terrace to the rear.

In the heart of a famous wine-growing village, a young couple from Brittany has opted to shine the spotlight on seafood to such an extent that you can almost smell the sea air. Their single set menu, whose dishes are intriguingly and poetically named, offers a choice of flawlessly fresh fish and shellfish, all of which are consummately cooked. The chef, who clearly knows his stuff, has his sights clearly focused on a single goal: taste. The wine list unsurprisingly gives the floor to Sancerre wines, and you'll hear no complaints from us. Cheerful, smiling service in an uncluttered, elegant int

A picturesque medieval village provides the backdrop for this attractive 14C building, which houses a restaurant boasting an elegant contemporary interior and a terrace overlooking the garden. Chef Quentin Dorangeville, who hails from France's Sarthe département, cooks up seasonal cuisine that is as meticulous as it is ambitious. Using fine ingredients, he creates balanced combinations, such as medallion of blue lobster, tomato, preserved lemon and courgette cream with ginger. Good food and service with a smile!

From his open kitchen, the chef consummately crafts dishes such as low-temperature arctic char, flanked with a velvety gribiche sauce and a crunchy salad of fennel. The single set lunchtime menu is a steal – all the better when leisurely sampled on the delightful, cobbled patio in summertime.

In a quiet street bang in the heart of Moulins, we don't need to be asked twice to take a seat in the snug dining area. In the equally dinky kitchen, the chef-owner crafts honest, homely, seasonal fare, illustrated by provençal aïoli with loin of cod and whelks, or grilled duck breast with lemon-spiked polenta and moussaka-style stuffed courgette.

Chef Jean-Baptiste Girard, an enthusiastic champion of his region, and his Japanese-born wife, Maiko, have turned this village inn around. Local produce (Charolais beef, organic vegetables, saffron…) and what the chef forages take centre stage on the menu - the wild garlic brioche is simply delicious ! Attentive service and tableware crafted by a local artisan make for a delightful experience.