Auberge de l'Escargot d'Or

Nestling at the foot of a château that is famous for having welcomed Madame de Sévigné as a regular patron, this restaurant is the perfect embodiment of Provence's twin traditions of hospitality and good food: olive oil from Nyons, guinea fowl and diced vegetables from the Drôme are judiciously showcased by chef Benjamin Reilhes in the form of three tasting menus comprising several courses. One of the set menus draws entirely on plants. This restaurant is an ode to the Mediterranean's fine ingredients and Rhône Valley wines. Pastry chef Cédric Perret, meanwhile, creates desserts in harmony wit

In the deliciously homely dining room decked in miscellaneous paraphernalia, you will be treated to tasty regional fare presented in one season-driven menu. Examples include homemade rennet with foie gras or lacquered pork belly from Dieulefit with regional veggies. In fine weather, take a seat on the shaded terrace and savour the knockout view.

You can't miss this 18C coaching inn with its blue cart on the roof, in a nod to René Barjavel's eponymous book in which he recounts his childhood in this part of the world. The spirit of the region is everywhere, from the terrace shaded by a reed canopy to the generous regional cuisine, examples of which are a terrine of marbled ham, warm potato salad with a spicy ravigote sauce and a decadent île flottante (egg whites in custard) in a culinary lineup as patriotic as the Marseillaise!

The second offshoot of Le Clair de la Plume, the nearby parent establishment, occupies a stunning 18C edifice set in fragrant, flower-decked gardens. Fresh, seasonal produce are the stars of the bistro lineup: homemade terrine of foie gras and Ardèche pork; poultry from the Blaches farm and, to finish, a selection of wickedly appetising home-made pastries. The spacious, covered terrace commands a matchless view of Grignan Castle in the distance and the treelined, walled garden in the foreground.

After a career at Christian Têtedoie’s restaurant (Lyon), Fei - Hsin and Jérôme Lamy decided to take over this place. He still works as a sommelier, offering appetising food and wine pairings that showcase his wife’s lovely cooking, which is inspired by her Taiwanese origins. A wonderful marriage of French and Asian.