Atour Hotel Liu Garden Taizhou

The brand, dating back to 1876, was reopened on the same spot in 2019 by a descendant of the founder. The traditional Chinese façade is chic and striking; the room decorated with lanterns boasts canal views. The custom-made noodles work well with broth jazzed up by dried scallops. In summer, the shrimp-trio noodles are the must-try – springy shrimps with shrimp roe and tomalley make for an umami extravaganza. In winter, try the crab roe version.

While the majority of diners love the traditional décor of this famous restaurant, its authentic flavours and generous portions at sensible prices find favour with all. Suzhou classic sautéed river shrimps seduce with natural umami and springy texture. Pork belly steeped in wine lees marinade boasts intoxicating aromas and melt-in-the-mouth, silky flesh. Its location near waterside Shantang Street is a hit at weekends.

Tucked away in the Pingjiang historic quarter, this restaurant was remodelled from an ancient mansion encompassing the quintessence of classical Suzhou garden and architecture. Similarly, the season-driven menu is based heavily on Suzhou culinary traditions, enlivened by modern twists. Mantis shrimps with soft roe are dressed in fermented rice lees marinade and topped with caviar. The duck soup with ham and fox nuts presents rich flavours and deep umami.

Red columns, tiled roofs and lanterns evoke the quintessence of Chinese architecture. On the menu, Suzhou noodles take centre stage, with Fengzhen-style pork noodles being a highlight (available May-Oct only). The white broth is loaded with umami and homemade wine lees impart depth and sweetness. In winter, try the braised pork noodles in a soy-based broth, and sautéed matsutake mushroom. Round off your meal with osmanthus fox nut sweet soup.

This shop has been selling pan-fried buns for over two decades. Now with a pair of branches in town, it is a household name beloved by locals. The queue may be off-putting, but rest assured that the buns – with fluffy dough, crispy bases and soupy fillings – are well worth the wait. The pork version may be hugely popular, but the vegan buns with Indian aster and dried tofu are incredibly aromatic. Try the taro balls in osmanthus sweet soup, too.

The simple, cosy room focuses on straightforward, deftly crafted Jiangsu classics. With dad and son in the kitchen and mum in charge of the front of house, it has built a loyal fanbase over the past 30+ years thanks to warm service, good food and budget-friendly prices. The braised pork belly with vegetarian chicken in claypot is the must-try: the soy-based faux meat soaks up the drool-worthy juices of the melty pork.

This Cantonese chef champions a fusion menu that melds Suzhou and Cantonese influences, ranging from timeless classics to painstaking heritage recipes. Nanjing-style braised goose is steeped in an aromatic marinade with over 30 types of herbs for hours. The mandarin fillet golden chrysanthemum fish is meticulously sliced and deep-fried. Everything is made to order so expect to wait. A limited number of private rooms require booking well in advance.