Loftlakásom****

Head away from the lakeside to seek out this honest all-day bistro with a smart modern interior and a popular terrace. Dishes have a Hungarian heart and perfectly reflect the seasons, with the likes of chilled fruit soups in summer and hearty, warming dishes in winter. Meat-lovers should order the mangalitsa Wellington if they see it on the menu, while fish fanatics should come on Fridays for the special seafood menu. They offer wines from around the world, but don't pass up the opportunity to try some of the superb local Lake Balaton options.

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in a traditional Hungarian experience, then head straight for Petrányi Csopak. Perched high on the hillside, this period house sits within the sloping Petrányi Pince vineyard and affords lovely views out over the countryside and towards Lake Balaton in the middle distance. The menu offers a range of dishes that are inspired by the traditional home-cooked meals of the past – the kind of dishes that most Hungarian households have their own family recipes for, such as soups, stews and ragouts. The salmon trout with leek, potato, béchamel and lemon is a great

There’s no denying that a meal at Csopaki Resti provides something a little different, as this tiny restaurant comprises just six seats and sits within the old village railway station. Because of its compact size, every diner can watch the chefs preparing the dishes in the on-view kitchen, but the four counter seats are undeniably the best place to be; wherever you sit, the chefs will serve you personally. The multi-course set menu takes on a refreshingly modern approach, while still keeping traditional Hungarian flavours to the fore.

This traditional-looking tavern comes with plenty of character and is certainly a hit with the locals. There’s a rustic, slightly Mediterranean feel to the décor, which works well with its location near the lake, but the best place to sit is on the large terrace beside the working water wheel. Fairly priced, hearty Hungarian classics are the order of the day, with the meat-stuffed pancakes a speciality. Children have their own menu too, and you’ll be well looked after by the friendly owners and their team. It’s a place for every occasion, so can get very busy at peak times.

A smart, modern wine bar in the livelier part of this seasonal town, Zelna is named after the wine company whose biodynamic wines it serves – and also offers for purchase. This is a place to kick back and relax, and the small menu mixes light bites with more substantial Hungarian dishes so you can tailor-make your own experience – the beef cheeks are a hit and be sure to save room for the golden walnut dumplings for dessert! Every table is located on the large terrace, which stays open until 2am.

An exclusive lakeside resort plays host to this elegant restaurant (if you’re not staying the night, then pre-booking is essential in high season). Grab a cocktail in the stylish bar before enjoying a carefully curated selection of contemporary Hungarian dishes which fuse tradition with inventive modern touches. Local wines are a feature, and the smooth service shows the team’s knowledge and care. If the chocolate and cherry dessert is on the menu, be sure to choose it.

Take in lovely views over the countryside and the lake from the terrace of this charming thatched building dating from 1822. The interior is full of historic character – it even boasts a hidden vaulted brick-built room which is used for private events – and the formal service suits the style of the place. Some unusual and rarely seen ingredients feature in well-crafted dishes; Tihany is famous for its lavender, so the ‘vinarius 200 tortaszelet’ dessert is a must.