Les Cognassiers

On the road between Bordeaux and Toulouse, in the heart of a tiny picturesque village near Agen, this country inn occupies a centuries-old stone house, whose terrace, shaded by ancient plane trees, faces a Clunisian priory founded in the 11C. A former consort of Michel Trama of Puymirol, chef Benjamin Toursel has forged his own distinctive modern style, scattered with bold, creative notes that frequently surprise the diner: mouth-wateringly juicy red tuna with a wasabi made out of roses, rhubarb and rose geranium; rack of veal, raw and cooked carrots and nasturtium-flavoured béarnaise. A prior

From the open kitchen of this hybrid space – part delicatessen, wine bar and restaurant –, a seasoned chef sends out dishes that are perfectly in tune with the convivial setting: spontaneous, precise, designed to delight without overthinking things. The pigeon and green asparagus, expertly cooked over coals and finished with a reduced pink peppercorn jus, is a standout example. The wine list comprises a constantly evolving selection of well-priced bottles (mostly biodynamic or natural) from small producers, and the enthusiastic front-of-house team is on hand to recommend just the right tipple.

This contemporary bistro is bistronomic at lunchtime and gastronomic in the evenings. In the hands of a veteran chef from Aveyron, overflowing with contagious enthusiasm, this friendly, invariably-packed eatery focuses on local, seasonal produce, jazzed up with the occasional globetrotting souvenir. We tasted duck foie gras terrine with pineapple and ginger chutney followed by roast guinea fowl, cream of green peas and a samosa of pleurote mushrooms.