南兜漫旅

This century-old Chinese medicine shop was converted into a restaurant specialising in therapeutic food. The sixth-generation owner intentionally kept the apothecary cabinets and used some inscribed plaques as dining tables. Eight tonic soups are offered each day, all tasty and mild in herbal flavour – refer to the menu for their medicinal actions. Make it a complete meal by ordering a set – with noodles tossed in sesame oil, a drink and sweet soup.

Over 70 years ago, a stall opened by a small park and the owner would sit on a tiny stool to blanch the noodles, to be tossed in pork sauce or served in soup. Nowadays, the park no longer exists, but the owner still sits on a stool like the old days. Soup noodles are recommended – silky, al dente thin egg noodles in a flavoursome broth, topped with velvet shrimps and braised minced pork. Do order sides or braised dishes on top.

Splitting from Fu Sheng Hao, a household name in the realm of Taiwanese savoury rice pudding known as wagui, the owner started Yi Wei Pin in 2013 to amplify his grandpa’s culinary legacy. Much darker in colour than its Taipei counterparts, the wagui is made with local rice milk, freshly slaughtered pork, velvet shrimps and house-braised ground pork sauce. Try it with washabi or minced garlic also. Their milkfish thick soup is also popular.

Shaved ice is mandatory for anyone spending a summer afternoon in scorching Tainan. But even in winter, shaved ice has its loyal fans. For over 50 years, Yuan Zai Hui has been specialising in eight-treasure shaved ice, traditionally with eight toppings. But the owners serve a simplified version allowing customers to choose five toppings out of 10-plus house-made choices. Signature include mini mochi balls, candied taro and tapioca wedges.

A devotee of the goddess Mazu, the owner-chef picked this space near the Grand Mazu Temple for his venture. Motifs of the goddess are dotted throughout the restaurant, from its sign to the shrine-inspired décor. Home-style cooking is kicked up a notch with a touch of sophistication. Leafy greens deftly meld the depth and umami of the fresh, salted and thousand-year egg trio. Try the squid and whelk soup, a classic banquet dish rarely found in Tainan. Closed during Mazu festivities.

After five decades of business in Guohua Street Market, the lamb soup stall shut its doors in 2013. Regulars lamented the loss but the owner’s nephew quit his job in Taipei to re-open the shop here. The famous soup made with freshly slaughtered local lamb meat and bones is the must-try item, but do order other lamb cuts and offal blanched in the soup and dressed in sesame oil. Come early – everything is sold out before 11 am.

Originally a hawker stall in a residential neighbourhood, Cheng Shi (‘honest’ in Chinese) took up this space in 2020 to serve health-conscious diners with all-natural egg noodle soup. Their clear broth made with kombu is a lot lighter than versions offered by their competitors and the variety generously topped with clams is especially popular. You can even specify how soft or firm you want your noodles. Expect to wait during peak hours.