玩行旅大安分館

When it comes to tempura, precision is the name of the game. With decades of experience in Japanese cooking, the head chef brings out the best in every ingredient with his keen sense for oil blend, oil temperature and batter consistency, sealing in the umami with an incredibly thin, crisp and light batter. The simple, cosy room is decorated with Japanese garden details. Reservations are mandatory, with only two sittings, at 12.30pm and 6.30pm.

The interior follows Japanese tradition with pale wood, warm lighting and fabric-wrapped panels. Niigata rice is seasoned with three vinegars, including akazu that gives depth and umami. The owner also imports sake and the list changes constantly to match the seasonal ingredients available. This relaxed sushi spot also serves cooked dishes if pre-ordered. Note that it is not related in any way to its namesake in Tokyo.

INITA, a portmanteau of Italy, Nippon (Japan) and Taiwan, delivers victuals that are underscored by Italian technique, jazzed up with Japanese twists and crafted with Taiwanese ingredients. The season-driven tasting menu consists of 10-plus courses inspired by the Japanese chef-owner’s culinary roots and experience. His dorayaki is a castella pancake sandwich filled with a tartare of local yellow beef, alongside an Italian tuna dip packed in briny umami.

Well versed in the culinary arts of Japan and France, founder Hiroki Nakanoue devises omakase menus that meld Edomae sushi traditions and incorporate some Western ingredients like caviar. The kitchen excels at realising his vision with finesse and precision. While nigiri sushi dominates the lunch menus, the team's creativity, astuteness, and skills shine brightest on the higher-priced dinner menu.

This is the place for a high-end omakase-style experience with a curated selection of tempura. Cherry-picked seasonal ingredients are coated in a light, golden, crispy batter that seals in the flavours and juices. The final product doesn’t taste at all greasy, is perfectly cooked with delicate textures. With 16 counter seats in two rooms, all the guests can admire the art of tempura up close.

Hosu moved here in 2024, and the decor revolves around eco-friendly principles – a native five-needle pine adorns the courtyard; the walls are covered in oyster shell paint. The chef's 14-course set menu is a compilation of the greatest dishes of Taiwan's five major group of population. Featuring gems from local mountains and waters, it follows the seasons. Interactive elements make for a fun experience.

In line with its name (the Latin word for ‘plum blossom’), the relaxed and friendly MUME generously garnishes dishes with fresh herbs and flowers – in somewhat stark contrast to the dimly-lit faux-industrial interior of the restaurant itself. On the menu, seasonal Taiwanese ingredients are melded with Nordic influences and modern techniques are used effectively to create dishes that provide contrasts in tastes and textures.