eos HOTEL Sumida

‘Simple and minimal’ is Noboru Arai’s guiding philosophy, grounded in precision. Using few ingredients and minimal seasoning, he pursues a refined, elegant expression of French cuisine. He communicates regularly with chefs of other countries, borrowing from a wide range of culinary cultures in search of originality. While French in spirit, the proprietress greets guests in kimono—an Asakusa touch that reflects the charm of Tokyo’s traditional downtown.

A competitive performance in yakitori run by two brothers, both hailing from other disciplines of Japanese cuisine. Dinner is served prix fixe, with the brothers taking turns serving. Chicken skewers are mainly served salted, keeping the focus on the flavour of the locally raised chicken. As the name ‘Shutei’, meaning something like pub, suggests, the neatly cut snacks and yakitori keep the sake going down smoothly. A number of choices are available for the final dish. Enjoy the ‘baton relay’ of the oyakodon, with the younger brother grilling the chicken and the elder brother wrapping it in eg

A genre-defying cuisine paired with tea-based cocktails. While rooted in French techniques, the chef seamlessly weaves in elements of Chinese and Japanese cuisine. The duck dish, for instance, is prepared by ladling hot oil over the skin, much like Peking duck. The tradition of serving tea and sweets after a meal, known as ochauke, reflects Japanese hospitality. Chef and mixologist work in harmony, refining the distinctive world of ‘wither and decay’ or ‘kokyu’.

Asakusa is a second hometown for the chef, who has lived here since his apprenticeship. He inherited both spirit and skill, along with tools and serving ware, from his mentor. He reveres the old teachings of the sushi world but does add a few twists of his own. He adds sweet potato shochu to rich soy syrup; to rolled omelette, he adds soy milk. The character for the chef’s surname of ‘Oku’ developed from a combination of the characters for ‘house’, ‘rice’ and ‘palm of hand’; a sign, he contends, that he was destined to run a place where he would fashion rice meals with his hands.

Black, white and orange are the tricolore of ‘Watanabe-ism.’ Black represents faith that cannot be tainted; white, the freedom to become any colour; and orange, the flame manipulated by the chef. On offer here is a fusion of French and Edo food cultures. Sobagaki is emulsified using French techniques; local Japanese elements include kaminari-okoshi, a roasted and flavoured mochi cracker; and monaka, a sweet of azuki bean paste sandwiched between crisp wafers. Watanabe-ism has deep roots in Asakusa-Komagata.

The name means ‘behind’, as in ‘behind the MICHELIN two-star restaurant out front’. In contrast to HOMMAGE, the purveyor of creative cuisine, noura is a homelike bistro that sticks to the basics. French onion soup, fish quenelle and duck confit are some of the French regional dishes on offer. Steak frîtes, a French comfort food, are a crowd-pleaser. This is French food culture for everyday life.

Beloved in Asakusa for three generations, this yoshoku restaurant treats demi-glace sauce as the soul of its kitchen. The most popular dish here is beef stew. Omurice is served with a choice of demi-glace or ketchup, a nod to the legacy shared between the former chef and his guests. The restaurant’s logo, a medieval-style shield adorned with the French tricolour, was inspired by a gift from a regular — a gesture that speaks to the warmth and goodwill of Tokyo’s traditional neighbourhoods.