Chuan Men Zih

A Hsing has been serving Tainan-style milkfish congee since 1965, attracting a queue as early as 5am every morning. You can specify the cut you want; the belly is the most prized part of the fish, boasting fatty, silky flesh. The congee base is flavoursome; fried garlic pieces on top add extra aroma. Feel free to order milkfish belly dressed in soy sauce as well. Unlike most simple shops in Tainan, air-conditioned seating is available inside.

The head chef trained in France and worked in some top-tier establishments in Taipei. She opened L’herbe in 2019, recruiting an all-women kitchen team to imbue traditional Gallic cuisine with distinctive local flavours. Expect to see angled loofah, basella, pork offal and the like on the table. Her tasting menu changes every season, with a choice of several main courses – Lumina lamb chop from New Zealand is especially worth trying.

Over 60 years old, this eatery has moved four times, but that hasn’t deterred its loyal followers who continue to queue up daily before opening time. Shrimp roll is a classic Taiwanese snack and a must-try for all visitors. Huang Chia’s version is stuffed with shrimp and cabbage and is dipped in a potato starch batter before being deep-fried to order, resulting in a fluffy airy crust, with thinly sliced radish on the side for contrast.

The chef, who hails from Pamplona in Spain, was originally a trader of Spanish food. He married his Tainanese wife and decided to use his knowledge by opening a restaurant, on a quiet street that resembles the European countryside. Both set menus and à la carte choices abound, all made with quality ingredients, such as live seafood from Anping Port. Check out the Spanish wines at bargain prices. On balmy nights, ask for a table on the terrace.

This place that started out as a corner stall some 30 years ago is now a fully-fledged joint with a bright, clean room… but the friendly service and bustling ambience haven't changed! Freshly slaughtered milkfish is the main draw – as a soup slow cooked with milkfish bone and head for natural sweetness, or fried milkfish belly with crispy skin and tender flesh. Rife with rustic aromas, the garlic rice drizzled with lard is the breakfast of choice for many.

This quaint red-brick mansion built circa 1846 has been home to an omakase restaurant serving traditional Taiwanese banquet dishes since 2015. The room was carefully restored to its former glory, befitting the old-time recipes the head chef got hooked on. For a flat fee per person, your party will be served seven dishes and one soup, all made with local seasonal ingredients like milkfish from Cigu and rice from Houbi. Reservations are mandatory.

Tainanese don’t need a sign to find good food in every nook and cranny of their city. This shop is one of such joints – a nondescript space clad in corrugated metal sheets, but that doesn’t stop regulars from queuing at the door. Its Tainan-style congee is more like soupy rice than the creamy type. Milkfish fillet, oysters, Chinese celery and rice are drenched in a clear stock to make the brunch favourite of many.