Bulgwang Noblesse

Across the street from the stone wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Onjium blends traditional Korean aesthetics with modern architectural calm. Guided by court cuisine specialist Cho Eun-hee and Park Sung-bae, the culinary team reinterprets traditional Korean flavours through modern techniques, seasonal ingredients, and years of research. Each dish is rooted in history yet speaks to today’s palate. Counter seating offers a glimpse into the quiet focus of the kitchen, while carefully curated beverage pairings enhance the experience.

This local haunt has been an integral part of Samcheong-dong’s history since 1982. The signature dish here is sujebi — rustic hand-pulled dough soup served in a savory anchovy broth. The restaurant is also known for its potato pancakes, made with grated potatoes that are pan-fried until crispy on the outside and pleasantly chewy on the inside. Avoid the lunch rush if you don’t want to stand in line, but be warned — the restaurant is always busy.

Andeok is known for its beef naengguksu and mandutguk. The mulguksu here is similar to Pyongyang-style naengmyeon, though the noodles are softer and springier thanks to the higher buckwheat content. The clean, mild broth is complemented by lightly seasoned beef, delivering a deep, savoury flavour with each bite. Fried peppers are also popular; the meat-and-vegetable filling, encased in a crisp batter, is unexpectedly flavourful. Arriving at opening time is recommended to avoid long queues at lunchtime.

Since 1932, Yonggeumok has been offering piping hot bowls of loach soup, a popular local dish believed to boost energy, especially during the summer months. This restaurant serves two different versions of the hearty and comforting soup: the chunkier Seoul style with whole loach, and the smoother Jeolla province style with ground loach. Everything on the menu as well as the complimentary side dishes are prepared daily by the longtime owner and chef Han Jeong-ja.

At Daesungjip, a rich, milky broth comes brimming with tender beef knee cartilage (dogani), tendon (suji), and shank (satae), all served with a dose of old-school hospitality. There’s no trace of gaminess—just a clean, subtly sweet broth with a luxuriously silky mouthfeel from well-emulsified fat. The steaming soup, springy dogani, and fluffy rice form a perfect trio, elevated by sharp kimchi, crisp kkakdugi, and bold gochujang garlic on the side. Owner Lee Chun-hee, still behind the ladle daily, may just be the key to the unwavering quality of this beloved doganitang.

Horapha, which means “Thai basil” in Thai. The menu is simple, but each dish delivers remarkably deep flavors. Namtokhet is a spicy salad made with charcoal-grilled mushrooms, aromatic herbs, and toasted rice powder, which has a pleasant chewy texture. Kaeng massaman is a curry with a unique flavor profile, made with cinnamon and sweet roasted vegetables. Paired with the right wine, these dishes offer a distinctive tasting experience. There is limited seating, and the place is always packed. With limited seating and steady demand, reserving in advance is the best way to secure a spot.

Moulin is a French restaurant located on a quiet street in Seochon. The charming vintage space design greets its diners, who are sure to be delighted by chef Yoon Ye-rang’s selection of French dishes packed with seasonal flavors. Traditional French techniques meet Korean seasonal ingredients to strike a balance between the nuanced flavors of the ingredients and hearty sauces. The string of tasting menus, which have been numbered since the restaurant’s opening, each tell a story, keeping the diners excited for what comes next.