At Ruam Chok

For over 20 years this local favourite has been serving tasty, wallet-friendly chicken rice, first in Sam-Yaek Market in San Sai and now at this larger branch on Old San Sai Road. Show up early, both to beat the crowds and because the food invariably runs out before closing time.

Since 2004, Doctor Sai has been serving pan-Thai dishes, including royal fare, following recipes from her mother, Saiyud, a former cooking instructor, in a setting reminiscent of dining at home. Start with an elegant appetiser like fried prawns and peanuts in an egg net, flower dumplings, or deep-fried pork wrapped in egg noodles. By dessert – try the sweet potato in syrup – you’ll guess this home, with its warm service, belongs to a royal from a bygone era.

With just four large communal tables, Magnolia Café is a simple, cosy spot enlivened by bold colours, vintage décor, and chandeliers. The owner-chef’s exquisite personal collection is on display, and she pays meticulous attention to sourcing high-quality ingredients, some from overseas. Their à la carte menu offers tasty, well presented fare from across Thailand. Dishes are distinguished by vivid, gutsy flavours; fried sun-dried squid with peanut sauce and fresh watermelon with desiccated salmon are exemplars. A complimentary pandan pudding is offered, making for a sweet and satisfying finish.

For decades, this spot has been drawing in loyal fans with its tue ka ko – crispy deep-fried taro with sweet chilli sauce and peanuts. Light, fresh and never greasy, each batch is made to order. The fried tofu is also worth trying. Open only until they sell out, so come early.

Chawee, named after the chef-owner's grandmother, offers an intimate, personalised dining experience, as Thai music plays softly in the inviting space with sage-green walls and vintage touches. Dishes draw on childhood memories or old recipes, in a menu that changes monthly, depending on the season and availability of local ingredients. With fragrant lychee and coconut in a harmonious mix, the spicy lychee salad refreshes the palate with its natural sweet-and-sour balance.

A solid choice for no-fuss Northern Thai food, this laid-back restaurant serves rustic, traditional dishes in small sharing portions. Highlights include the well-balanced kaeng om and boldly flavoured lap nuea, available with pork, beef or fish – raw or cooked – all prepared in classic Northern style. In an open-air setting with a relaxed local vibe, the place fills up with Thai diners at peak times. Service is friendly, with staff often speaking Northern Thai.

This shop serves the famous Khao Soi, featuring rich and slightly spicy curry notes. You can choose your preferred meat toppings, and the portions are so delicate that you might find yourself wanting another round!