LUANAHOTEL IN KOUENJI

The founder of Sushi Yoshino was once an apprentice at a well-known sushi restaurant in Tokyo’s Kyobashi district. When he became independent, he inherited the shop name, and now his heir and son have hung out their shingle together. Sushi toppings prepared in the old-school way are paired with sushi rice made with red vinegar. The shop captivates with the spirit of a true sushi restaurant. Lighting is used effectively in view of the basement location and the long counter of zelkova wood is a striking feature. Enjoy craftsmanship in both the sushi and the décor.

‘The look surprises, the taste reassures.’ The chef’s passion for creativity makes his culinary spirit unique. Decoratively arranged sashimi are briefly heated to draw out moisture. The chef doesn’t serve soup dishes, as much of his cooking tailors the dashi stock to each dish. His freewheeling personality makes the evening fun, while the folk-art vibe of the interior, including a chest of drawers inherited from the chef’s grandparents, fills the air with memories and the warmth of family.

The soup accentuates the umami of the meats with the flavour of dried sardines; if you’re looking for soup with a unique and beguiling taste, you’ve found it here. Chashumen, ramen topped with roasted pork, is so covered in pork slices that they hide the noodles. Rice is available as an extra with the ramen, so try placing some of the roasted pork on top of it to make chashudon, roast-pork rice. Impressive and satisfying indeed, as if to say there is ramen here.

The chef heard the call to the culinary life one day while riding his father’s motorcycle on a long tour around the Seto Inland Sea. When he happened upon a ramen shop along the way, the taste of the salty soba touched his soul. He combines a clear seafood broth with homemade noodles crafted with aroma in mind. The ceiling decoration recalls the roof of an old-time food stall, honouring how ramen culture spread in his native Hiroshima Prefecture.

Sushi got its start as hawker food that flourished in Edo (old Tokyo). To impart a feeling for that culture, Tachiguisushi Sushikawa is a standup sushi bar (and is what the name means). No drinking snacks; this is nigiri only, which you can order piece by piece according to your taste. Sushi toppings display an old-school craftsmanship. The chef harbours doubts about the recent trend of taking sushi up-market, which is why he recreated the atmosphere of a real-deal, no-nonsense sushi joint. A sushi local where regulars come to chat with the chef.

The name ‘sanka’ refers to three aromas — a trinity of ingredients, sauce and wine. Classical foundations are revisited and reinterpreted through original ideas. A signature dish showcases several varieties of potato, prepared using a range of techniques, sauces and powders to draw out their deep, earthy character. In the spirit of ‘onko-chishin’, the restaurant seeks to evolve French cuisine by learning from the past.

Enjoy pairings of local cooking with organic wines. The prix fixe opens with onion tart. Vegetable soup fragrant with basil brings memories of their apprenticeship in the south of France. Seeking warm, simple flavours, the chefs rely on time-honoured cooking utensils and techniques. Wearing aprons over everyday clothes, they chat casually with guests. An atmosphere that wants diners to enjoy French cuisine casually.