Wenxin Hotel Chigang

Chinese

TV may well have changed the life of the Hong Kong chef who helms Chōwa – after honing his skills in Western cooking, Louis Tam was inspired to explore Franco-Japanese fusion food by a Japanese TV drama. The seasonal six- and eight-course tasting menus embody his vision, and everything is made from scratch: the sauces, pickles, even the plum wine. The piping hot brioche has a springy texture thanks to the yudane recipe. Ask about wine and sake pairings.

In a main dining room and 32 private rooms, all exuding understated glamour, this place champions innovative and refined Cantonese fare. It serves hand-crafted dim sum, a rare thing these days. The menu has an array of double-boiled tonics, such as fish maw and ginseng soup. Pre-order to avoid disappointment. Round off the meal with black sesame sweet soup over milk custard for double indulgence. Other signatures include stir-fried flat rice noodles with beef, and juicy roasted goose.

Chao Yue means jumping waves, echoing the sculptural wave form on the ceiling of the spacious dining room. Three fixed price menus put the fun back into fine dining and globally sourced produce is used in impeccably presented, playful and pleasantly surprising dishes, such as eel maw disguised as sticky lychee rice balls. Chaozhou traditions and innovative techniques are melded seamlessly in dishes like boneless crispy skinned pigeon in bean sauce.

Perforated windows, ceiling fans and chandeliers impart retro Lingnan flair. Chef Feng also bases his recipes on Lingnan traditions and seasonal local produce, but slightly tweaked to the local palate and spruced up with unique creativity. His Shunde minced fish soup perfumed by makrut lime leaves, and roast goose that takes 45 minutes to cook in the oversized grill, tend to sell out fast. End the meal with silky ginger milk curd in Shawan style.

The head chef, who hails from Guangdong, has been cooking professionally since the age of 15 and has extensive experience at hotels in Shanghai and Nanjing. Each dish embodies the utmost finesse and attention to detail. The range of dim sum at lunch is dazzling – especially the deep-fried taro dumplings with shrimp and chicken filling. His signature crispy-skin chicken, made with birds from Qingyuan, boasts robust flavours and a velvety texture.

Christened after the dynasty and a nod to the owner's name, this award-winning place has pillars covered with stainless steel bricks and gigantic glass-feathered wings hung from the mirrored ceiling that lend an eerie sense of space. Standouts on the predominantly Sichuanese menu include spicy boiled tiger grouper, jujube wood-roasted 42-day Peking duck, and spicy crab. Try the Sichuan street food, too – such as stuffed pancake, and Zhong's dumplings.