Atour Hotel Hangzhou Zhuantang Songcheng Academy of Fine Arts

The owner-chef opened this tiny gem in 2011, naming it after his unique hairstyle. The locals come in droves for his authentic Hangzhou-style noodles – browse the chalkboard for the 30-plus varieties on offer. All the noodles are cooked on the spot and tossed in sauces or served in soup. Springy noodles tossed in a glaze with wok-fried river shrimps and eel are loaded with lardy richness, deep umami and soy sauce flavour.

At a remove from the city, this rustic place set amid tea fields is run by a husband-and-wife team. He is a fishing enthusiast, and freshwater fish from nearby lakes and rivers is the main event here. The braised dark sleeper with salted potherb mustard and bamboo shoot impresses with its silky meat and a gingery kick. Try the sautéed free-range chicken from local tea farms. To avoid disappointment, pre-order seasonal dishes, as availability is limited.

This joint venture wedged between two famous restaurants occupies a villa surrounded by lush tea farms. Zhejiang country cooking defines the score, which showcases locally sourced ingredients and veg from its own farm. The old ceramic fire pots by the entrance are still used to simmer some recipes over charcoal, including their famous chicken soup. Hearty and springy, braised pig’s head meat is served with litsea seed-scented soy sauce.

Getting to L’éclat 19, which nestles in a wooded valley on the southern shore of West Lake, is an experience in its own right. Open for dinner only, it offers two tasting menus that keep pace with the seasons, both signed by chef Olivier Elzer. Gallic classics are given refined Chinese twists – the bread is served with butter infused with Chinese Moutai liquor. The top-notch ingredients are sourced globally, while creative sauces deliver layered flavours.

The sleek, elegant room stands in an osmanthus forest, the sweet scent of which lingers in the air in autumn. Once you set foot inside, the earthy smell of black tea takes over – tea-smoked dishes such as crispy skin chicken exude intoxicating aromas. The menu is dominated by Zhejiang classics made with seasonal ingredients from across the country. Try the river fish cooked with dried bamboo shoot, too. The tea ceremony at each table is quite a spectacle.

Tucked away in a quiet alley, this restaurant in a Chinese garden with stone bridges and ponds only offers eight private rooms. The chef crafts nostalgic, poetically named Jiangnan dishes and shines the spotlight on local Zhejiang favourites. As a starter, diners are served freshly made sweet or savoury soymilk, flanked by a lineup of sides. The signature double-boiled duck soup with cordyceps chanhua is tasty and nourishing.

Close to Lingyin Temple and Amanfayun resort, this rustic-style restaurant has a serene vibe. On the menu, classic Jiangzhe dishes get a refined makeover with some creative and surprising combinations. The signature double-boiled deboned chicken with termite mushrooms is loaded with deep flavours. The signature rice cake in chopped crab sauce is another standout. House-brewed fruit wines, such as bayberry, plum and lychee, are also worth a try.