Modena by Fraser Nanjing

The young chef-owner learnt his craft from his father, a renowned master in Huaiyang cuisine. At this restaurant, he flaunts solid technique, with his simple, well-made – and competitively priced – Huaiyang fare. The brine-poached pigeon has juicy, silky meat and imparts lingering umami. Check out the chef's recommendations on the blackboard, too. Certain painstakingly made dishes, such as sweet and sour "squirrel" mandarin fish, and eight treasure gourd duck, need to be pre-ordered.

The owner’s grandpa used to be a street vendor selling cold jelly noodles. In 2011, when the owner opened this restaurant, he decided to uphold this legacy and put them on the menu. The fine, velvety noodles are made with three types of starch, topped with dried radish and chilli and dressed in a sauce that is sweet, sour, savoury and spicy - all at the same time. Red-braised beef rib tips boast deep flavour and the cartilage adds a lovely texture. Reservations recommended.

A local chef opened this small shop in an alley to serve traditional Nanjing-style xiao long bao. With slightly thicker skin than their Shanghainese counterparts, these dumplings are depicted by a soupy pork filling that is not fully enclosed within the pleated wrapper. Try the version with local chrysanthemum leaves that impart a unique herbal fragrance; the crab roe version brimming with orange, umami-laden tomalley is also hugely popular.

Back in 1983, the owner's father began selling wonton soup on a bamboo pole. Today, the same wonton soup attracts diners in droves and there's always a queue by the entrance to this place. The hand-wrapped wontons have thin skin and a generous juicy filling. Feel free to sprinkle with dried baby shrimps, pickled mustard stem and chilli oil. Scallion or bean paste flatbread makes a great companion to the dumplings. Open until 1pm; arrive early.

This much-loved, family-run noodle shop has been around since 1991. In addition to hand-made wontons, it is also famous for lao lu mian: chewy, slippery and squiggly hand-cut noodles served in a dark, soy-based broth perfumed with an array of spices. Consider ordering add-on toppings, such as braised pork intestine, pork sparerib, and soft-poached egg with runny yolk. Expect to share a table at mealtimes.

Chef Liang's career spans three decades and includes stints at famous establishments in Macau. Here, he gives Cantonese classics a makeover with condiments from his birthplace of Shunde, for instance salted kohlrabi in sautéed baby lobster with radish cake, and Chinese olive kernels in sweet and sour pork. The Cantonese barbecue is a highlight; the crispy-skin chicken with silky, juicy flesh also tends to sell out. Pre-order to avoid missing out.

The views of Xuanwu Lake and Mt Zijin are beautiful to behold, but the light-filled open kitchen, where the experienced chef prepares updated Huaiyang and Nanjing classics as well as seasonal dishes, also catches the eye. The crystal pork aspic boasts meaty flavour and a bouncy texture, with vinegar pearls providing mini explosions of tartness. The thinly shredded tofu in umami-laden Wensi tofu soup with crabmeat is testament to impressive knife skills.