HotelCO Kuramae

‘Tonkatsu is food for the masses’, explains the second-generation chef, as he aims to serve up fare that is familiar and comforting. Copper pots polished till gleaming and plain wooden counters display a craftsman’s spirit. Two pots are used: one containing hot oil and the other cooler oil. Pork loin is shorn of extra fat and thinly battered. Tonkatsu is the star attraction, so no meat is added to the pork miso soup. As the chef works, a photo of his father in chef’s whites watches over him.

Black, white and orange are the tricolore of ‘Watanabe-ism.’ Black represents faith that cannot be tainted; white, the freedom to become any colour; and orange, the flame manipulated by the chef. On offer here is a fusion of French and Edo food cultures. Sobagaki is emulsified using French techniques; local Japanese elements include kaminari-okoshi, a roasted and flavoured mochi cracker; and monaka, a sweet of azuki bean paste sandwiched between crisp wafers. Watanabe-ism has deep roots in Asakusa-Komagata.

The chef defends the traditions and skills of Edo-style sushi while showing creativity with some innovations of his own. Japanese halfbeak and horse mackerel are accented with ginger and mirin–soy reduction; simmered conger eel is served both salted and dipped in eel sauce for taste comparison. Nigiri is shaped using rice seasoned with red vinegar—a showcase of techniques cultivated over years of experience. Treading the path of the sushi chef was a dream in his teenage years. Steady devotion to craft is a lesson learned from sushi.

‘Simple and minimal’ is Noboru Arai’s guiding philosophy, grounded in precision. Using few ingredients and minimal seasoning, he pursues a refined, elegant expression of French cuisine. He communicates regularly with chefs of other countries, borrowing from a wide range of culinary cultures in search of originality. While French in spirit, the proprietress greets guests in kimono—an Asakusa touch that reflects the charm of Tokyo’s traditional downtown.

‘Tentenkyokyo’ carries the heartfelt wish that guests will enjoy tempura and soba to their heart’s content. Shiba shrimp, skewered and deep-fried, is a standard of soba-shop tempura beloved since the Edo period. Although the sea from which shiba shrimp were once harvested has been reclaimed as land, the tradition lives on. Shiba-shrimp tempura embodies the spirit of Edo, and the food culture resonates even today. For your omakase set menu, you can choose whether to include small dishes in the bill of fare or focus solely on tempura.

Asakusa is a second hometown for the chef, who has lived here since his apprenticeship. He inherited both spirit and skill, along with tools and serving ware, from his mentor. He reveres the old teachings of the sushi world but does add a few twists of his own. He adds sweet potato shochu to rich soy syrup; to rolled omelette, he adds soy milk. The character for the chef’s surname of ‘Oku’ developed from a combination of the characters for ‘house’, ‘rice’ and ‘palm of hand’; a sign, he contends, that he was destined to run a place where he would fashion rice meals with his hands.

The motto on the noren, ‘After having tempura, finish with soba’, declares the personality of Sonoji. The chef learned the arts of both soba and tempura when he ran a shop in his native Shizuoka. For tempura pieces, he focuses on the bounty of Shizuoka’s Suruga Bay and traditional Edo seafood. Vegetables shipped directly from farmers accentuate each season. The soba served at the end of the meal is topped with kakiage of sakura shrimp, ‘the jewel of Suruga Bay’. The unique menu reflects each stage on the chef’s gastronomic journey.