Atour Hotel Fengqi Road West Lake Hangzhou

Jade-coloured archways, silk-clad panels and organic light fixtures evoke a classical Hangzhou garden with a stylised touch. Similarly, the seasoned fine dining kitchen team adds novel twists to Ningbo classics. Marinated raw crab in a spicy sour sauce boasts briny sweetness, gelatinous texture and buttery roe. Crispy skin pigeon leg is deboned and stuffed with the bird’s breast; Sichuan pepper cuts through the richness.

After opening in 2017, Wu Zi shot to fame, becoming the best-known noodle shop in the area. Classic Hangzhou-style noodles are either served in soup or tossed in sauces with various toppings – prepared to the exacting standards of the owner, a chef by profession. The pork kidney and liver are nicely browned while retaining their succulence and a lovely chewiness. Another must-try classic topping: shrimps and eel sautéed with onion, mushrooms and dried tofu.

After a recent move, the shop is now tucked away down an alley but is easily found by following the heady aromas of the house specialty: slow-braised lamb in a giant wok with broth and Shaoxing wine until the meat falls off the bone. Thin noodles that cling well to broth and 12-month-old lambs are shipped daily from Tongxiang, Zhejiang. The lamb and offal noodle soup offers free noodle refills or order a side of lamb’s legs and trotters.

Embedded in Hangzhou’s collective culinary memory, the predecessor of this simple, friendly joint dates back to the 1990s. The chalkboard menu covers many traditional home-style favourites, with river fish being the speciality. Braised soft-shelled turtle with pickled cabbage boasts gelatinous texture, deep flavours and mild heat. Quick-poached pork kidneys impress with spot-on doneness and snappy texture. Yellow croaker on rice cake is another must-try.

This household name, famous for home-style Hangzhou cooking, has been around for over 20 years. The dining area occupies two floors, but seating is limited, so expect to queue or share a table at peak hours. The signature cold appetiser of pork kidneys dressed in a sweet tangy sauce is meticulously crafted. Seafood is also their strong suit – try razor clams from the East China Sea sautéed in chilli sauce or scallion oil.

Set in a luxury lakeside hotel, amid ponds and manicured gardens, this handsome restaurant is depicted by a classical Chinese vibe. The kitchen team sources seasonal ingredients from all over China to craft Zhejiang neo-classics with a modern twist. Meticulously sliced and perfectly textured, the braised pork belly is well worth the wait. The dim sum lunch is also popular: try crabmeat and roe xiao long bao or sticky rice roll.

Spread over two floors, the interior, decked in modern Chinese motifs, overlooks a lush green courtyard. The menu highlights the chemistry between the clean umami of live seafood from Ningbo and the complex tang of fermented delicacies from Shaoxing. Surprisingly, the sweet flavour of white crab meat is accentuated when braised in big-boned stinky tofu. Try a glass of Shaoxing huangjiu (yellow wine), neat or mixed in a cocktail.