Hôtel du Morvan

Set in a small village deep in the Charolais countryside, Jeanne-Louise and Kevin (J+K) jointly craft cuisine that is very much in tune with the times, with the occasional nods to Italy. Painstakingly selected ingredients with a soft spot for vegetables: for example, a line-fished, chunky fillet of cod, spring veggies and a stock of Burgundy miso; apple clafoutis served with whipped vanilla-laced chantilly cream. Jaw-dropping lineup of pre- and post-dinner beverages, including a few gems from Italy’s vineyards.

Frédéric Doucet's restaurant is a creative and exciting take on established ideas of terroir and tradition. The son of bistro owners, he was born into the business, and cut his teeth in the kitchens of some of the greats, from Pierre Orsi and Paul Bocuse to the prestigious Maison Troisgros. In his premises nestled in the heart of a village with pointed towers and weathered roofs, the chef breaks it down for diners: nothing but fine ingredients from Saône-et-Loire (including Charolais beef, snails, pike and goat's cheese), prepared with rigorously applied classical techniques that do not exclud

Both the decor (vaulted cellar, exposed stone and beams) and the food are full of character. Laurent Dufour draws on fine produce to create generous and authentic dishes, such as fillet of sea bream with Provencal-style vegetables and pesto, or roast pigeon with pan-fried foie gras and sherry jus. The menu changes regularly and, in winter, features truffles, of which the chef is a big fan! The welcome is cordial.

Jérôme Brochot rustles up market-fresh cuisine in the guise of his "côté cuisine" set menu, which changes on a weekly basis. On weekends, the spotlight is on the fine dining surprise set menu. They offer a cookery class on Sunday mornings.

Chef Nicolas Martin has taken over the reins of the restaurant at the Hotel VillaPona, a Grand Siècle coaching inn that has been completely renovated. The dining room channels the charm of its bygone days and peps it up with contemporary details. The chef hails from the region and has worked at Lameloise, Troisgros and Jérôme Brochot's restaurant. Here, he creates tasty dishes using fresh seasonal ingredients: smoked arctic char, artichoke and cauliflower; Bresse chicken with wild garlic and morels…

The initiative by this pair, chef Willy Lardry and maître d' Edwin Smietanski, to open their restaurant here is most welcome. Both hail from Le Creusot but met while working for Yohann Chapuis in Tournus. The interior is inspired in part by nature (with, in particular, wallpaper depicting a forest in the mist). The chef, working alone in the kitchen, shows undeniable maturity. Delicacy and finesse are the order of the day, for example, the lovely courgette flower with cod stuffing and the olive oil sabayon accompanying the cod tournedos, or the mackerel and its marinated cucumber ravioli.

Chef Jean-Baptiste Girard, an enthusiastic champion of his region, and his Japanese-born wife, Maiko, have turned this village inn around. Local produce (Charolais beef, organic vegetables, saffron…) and what the chef forages take centre stage on the menu - the wild garlic brioche is simply delicious ! Attentive service and tableware crafted by a local artisan make for a delightful experience.